Thursday, February 27, 2014

McCall 3769: The 'Lantern Army' Jacket


Today is the Sew Grateful Week Projects Day and I'm delighted to share my most recent make with all of you.  It's a 1940 McCall pattern (surprise!) but I felt that was the most appropriate for this week because I am so incredibly grateful for everyone's support and wonderful comments on the 1940 McCall project to date!  Several readers have sent me McCall patterns or links to patterns for sale and I am always incredibly moved by this!!  


For this week, I tackled McCall 3769, a beautiful jacket pattern that features really nice princess seamed lines that turns into pockets.

The second part of my Sew Grateful Project is to say thank you to my darling husband, David.  He chose the fabric and often helps me plan out projects.  He has an incredible eye for what fabrics will work with what patterns.  He also takes all the photos--and has been incredibly patient over the years for my desire to run all over Edinburgh (and elsewhere in Scotland) for the perfect locations :-)


The pattern was fantastic to follow.  I am especially chuffed about my jacket lapels!  Usually my corners look, ahem, suspect.  This time, they look like jacket lapels! yay!!


Thirdly, I want to say thank you to the wonderful sewists here in Scotland.  We recently met up in Glasgow and it was fantastic to meet everyone!  I heard about the Chinese lantern army that was set up in Old College, Edinburgh through Franca who blogs over at Oranges and Apples.  So we decided to head over there for the photos and what a lovely backdrop it was!  Check out more about this outdoor exhibition and her amazing photos over at her blog.


The fabric is a medium-weight wool that I got at Armstrong's Vintage store for super cheap (I think it was £10 for 3 metres).  I even have enough left over to make a matching skirt.

The front princess seam is attached using a lapped seam which almost gives it the appearance of being piped.  The bottom of the seam opens up into pockets.  I adore the sleeves on this and the sleeve caps are pleated.

These pictures were taken in Old College which is the University of Edinburgh's Law School.  So pretty….


You can sort of see it in this picture but the jacket is lined in a light brown lining fabric.  I really hate inserting lining--I don't know why.  I think in the future I will just use different techniques to neaten my inside seams.  With this weight of fabric, I don't really need lining and I don't mind the feeling of wool (I actually prefer it to the feeling of lining fabric).

The only drawback from the pattern is that I must have added too much width when grading up the pattern in the back.  You can see that it's just ever so slightly too wide.  I'm not too bothered about it but it's a good lesson that  I need to remember that I have a narrow back when grading up patterns!


Very happy with my new jacket and it goes perfectly with my Birthday dress.  You might have noticed that I also made a matching belt for my dress with a neat art deco belt buckle.  It's just peaking out but I'll need to get some belt close-up photos to show you the buckle.


I hope you've had a lovely Sew Grateful Week!  Definitely add your giveaways, reflection posts, resources posts and projects to the link parties before the end of the week.  And check out the amazing posts from others. I've been blown away by everyone's participation.  It's been so much fun to read everyone's contributions!
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23 comments

  1. Ah this is so beautiful! I just love those sleeve darts - cannot get enough!
    Absolutely agree with you about lining fabric. I have so many coats I need to sew and finish and even a redingote but the lining thing does my head in. Been meaning to try interlining the lining fabric with something lightweight but not slippery like I do with all my summer dresses - using cotton voile or similar.
    Potentially it will reduce the slippage and thus make any hand sewing easier, without adding bulk. If you try this before I get a chance, let us know how it goes!

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  2. Gorgeous! I hope you get a lot of wear out of this because it is lovely on you. And how lucky you are to have a husband with an eye for fabric. My partner has only two settings when i show her fabric: That's hideous, or How much did that cost?

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  3. I love this jacket! The details are exquisite. Well done. And I'm jealous of your husband who enjoys fabric shopping and taking pictures.

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  4. Love the detail on that jacket. Those lines are so flattering!

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  5. Beautiful jacket! it looks so professional! And your husband definitely beats mine in supportiveness. He hates when I ask his opinion on fit or fabric, as he really doesn't get it at all! (and bless him, although he tries, he is nowhere near your hubby in photography skills either...).

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  6. your jacket is gorgeous! i love the seaming.

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  7. Argh, it's beautiful Debi and is a perfect match for your stunning dress too! I've not had time to properly participate in your Wonderful Sew Grateful Week this year, but I am planning a related giveaway tomorrow...as I'd hate the week to miss me by completely!

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  8. Your jacket is gorgeous, the fabric is perfect!

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  9. Wow, what a fantastic jacket! I love the color and the fabric! The lapped seam detail looks amazing- I've never seen anything like that before!

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  10. Love your jacket! I aim to make one, one day LOL

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  11. Fantastic outfit! Love your dress and that jacket is really beautiful. Suits you so well. And, what a great place for a photoshoot! That old college is so great and makes the perfect backdrop to your vintage style.

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  12. What a beautiful jacket! It looks so warm and cozy, I love it. Reminds me I need to get to making mine.
    Love seeing all your Scotland photos as well. I grew up reading George MacDonald and ever since then I have wanted to visit.

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  13. Gorgeous jacket, love the princess seams into pockets, very feminine and flattering. x

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  14. oh, I'm glad you went! Love random little art things like that!

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  15. You look so pretty! And I absolutely adore this princess seamed lines/pockets thing, it's such a great idea! It looks quite complicated to make though?

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  16. What a beautiful jacket! I love all the details and the rich colour looks so pretty on you. I just love how collaborative you and David are with your sewing. :)

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  17. The jacket looks marvelous Debi!! Once again, I am awed by your ability to find the most stunningly detailed patterns :) You look so lovely too (David has an easy task making you look good;)

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  18. Thanks for organising sew grateful week again! I've really enjoyed reading everyone's posts, maybe next year I'll be organised enough to take part!
    Your jacket looks gorgeous & I always enjoy seeing your photo locations! Also, I just love your hair in these photos!

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  19. I love '3os and '40s suits and jackets with a passion. I've got a gorgeous late '30s suit and coat set I'm planning to make for a trip to Poland and Scotland in June (I'm Australian, if it's below 25 degrees C, I'm cold. Don't judge).

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  20. Thank you so much! I really dislike lining fabric...but I think your idea of interlining might be the way to go!! :-)

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  21. hahaha! Yes, I am very lucky that David has an eye for fabric...though we don't always see eye-to-eye on my fabric choices :-)

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  22. Wow! These last two looks might be my favorites on you. I think brown is a color that makes you shine though. The jacket is just fantastic and the dress is so flattering. Those pockets! *swoon*

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  23. Such a beautiful jacket. I adore the sleeves and the fit is amazing on you. Sharp lapels too, lady! x

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I read each and every comment--thank you so much!

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