According to the 1943 edition of the 'Complete Book of Sewing' by Constance Talbot:
"In soft materials, tucks control fullness and take the place of darts. These are marked in the pattern or must be planned to give fullness where it is needed. A large tuck at the shoulder line is sometimes used to cover the shoulder seam... Every tuck in a group must be exactly the same width, and the space between tucks must be carefully measured."Tucks are a very common feature of vintage sewing, existing in fashions from almost every decade. Historically, tucks were also used to shorten a finished garment--so that it could be subsequently lengthened later by removing the tucks. This was especially popular for children's garments. Of course, this could be done in the opposite way as is mentioned in Louisa May Alcott's book, Little Women when Amy says:
"My only comfort," she said to Meg, with tears in her eyes, "is that Mother doesn't take tucks in my dresses whenever I'm naughty, as Maria Parks's mother does. My dear, it's really dreadful, for sometimes she is so bad her frock is up to her knees, and she can't come to school. -Chapter 4 {source}Here's a look at different styles and uses of tucks in vintage sewing patterns throughout the decades:
1930s:
1. Companion Butterick 8315 pattern, available at Adele Bee Ann Patterns Etsy Store; 2. 1930s Day Slip, various sizes, available at Mrs Depew Vintage Etsy store; 3. 1938 McCall dress pattern, available at Cynical Girl's Etsy Store; 4. 1930s nightgown in various sizes, available at Mrs Depew Vintage Etsy Store; 5. 1930s New York 632 Pattern, available at JFerrari Designs Etsy Store; 6. 1930s Simplicity 3152 dress pattern, available at Pattern and Stitch Etsy Shop
I just love the tucks of the 1930's. They often appear in the form of very small pintucks but give such amazing detail to any garment. I love that the detail also appears on everyday wear like nightgowns!!
1940s:
1. McCall 7663 dress pattern, available at J Ferrari Designs Etsy Shop; 2. DuBarry 6044 halter top pattern, available at Cynical Girl's Etsy Shop; 3. McCall 5881 skirt pattern, available at Adele Bee Ann Patterns Etsy Shop; 4. Advance 4769 blouse pattern, available at RetroMonkeys' Etsy Shop; 5. McCall 7203 dress pattern, available at Floradora Presents Etsy Shop; 6. Simplicity 4566 blouse pattern, available at Cynical Girl's Etsy Shop
When I think about tucks, I automatically think of the 1940s. I just love the use of tucks in blouses and shirt dresses and also the innovative use of tucks like in the halter top (#2) and horizontal decorative tucks (#5) in the patterns above.
1950s:
1. Marian Martin 9090 dress pattern, available at Floradora Presents Etsy Shop; 2. McCall 5038 dress pattern, available at RetroMonkeys' Etsy Shop; 3. Simplicity 2033 dress pattern, available at J Ferrari Designs Etsy Shop; 4. Simplicity 4556 dress pattern, available at Adele Bee Ann Patterns Etsy Shop; 5. Butterick 6293 dress pattern, available at Cynical Girl's Etsy Shop; 6. Butterick 5694 blouse pattern, available at RetroMonkeys' Etsy Shop
The 1950s also made innovative use of tucks to give the beautiful feminine 50s silhouette by taking out fullness at the waistline, bust area or hipline. I just love all these pattern examples!
Sewing Tucks:
One of the best links for sewing perfect tucks is the tutorial from Tilly and the Buttons. While you are at it, check out her delicious Mathilde blouse pattern and her latest creation, the Miette skirt pattern!
Have you worked at all with tucks or pintucks? I just love them as a vintage style detail!
