The 'Secret Garden Dress'

Welcome to my secret garden..full of greenery and the brightest red roses!

I know I say this about every outfit I make (well almost every one...), but this one may be my favourite!!  I used a tried and true vintage pattern (Style Print 1283) for a classic 1950s shirtwaist dress.

I've used this pattern twice before and have made both of the pattern views.  The last time I sewed a full waisted shirtwaist from this pattern was my 'Midcentury Madness' dress using a perfect autumnal 50s print:

When I came across this AMAZING vintage red roses fabric at the W. Armstrong and Sons vintage store in Edinburgh, I immediately thought of the Style Print shirtwaist pattern.

The fabric suits the pattern so perfectly. I just love it! I think the fabric might be a barkcloth type fabric--it's a little heavier and more textured than most cottons.  And the colours are phenomenal. I just love the red roses on the grey background!

I even had the perfect little vintage buttons in my stash --way back when I won a pound of vintage buttons from Tasia at Sewaholic.  I'm still working my way through the stash of buttons and these ones were a match made in heaven --1950s red buttons with cute little fake diamonds in the centre.

I paired my dress with a red petticoat that I got from Vivien of Holloway, red seamed What Katie Did stockings and grey BAIT footwear shoes:

I am so delighted with this dress! Shirtwaisters with unique vintage fabric are a great match!  Plus the other nice thing about this dress is that the fabric seems like it will be long-wearing and easy to travel with (doesn't wrinkle too easily)--which is a major bonus!

I wish all my dresses were covered with large red roses :)  What about you, any fabric in your stash that you absolutely love?

The 'Purple Paradise Dress Suit'

This project has spanned seven years in the making and includes a blouse from a 1970s pattern, a skirt from a reissued 1960s pattern and a classic waistcoat from a 1950s pattern!

I'm so pleased with how they all fit together so well!  I made the skirt back in 2011(!) but it started out it's life as a 1970s poncho (that I also made):

I actually bought the fabric in a charity shop and just loved the purple tones.  After sewing up the wool poncho for a sewing challenge, I realised I was never going to wear it as a poncho because 1) it can be windy in Edinburgh and the poncho just ends up around my ears (ha!), 2) Edinburgh weather is variable meaning layering is almost always essential – it's very hard to layer over a poncho (double ha!) and 3) 1970s looks aren't really my thing!

So I took the poncho fabric, unpicked the lining and turned to Simplicity 2154 to make a classic pencil skirt:

I should really wear pencil skirts more – they are very versatile and super easy to make.  The pencil skirt has a very straight line (as compared to the super duper fitted ones from the 1950s) with a small slit/vent in the back.

Here's a better close-up of the wool fabric pattern and my handpicked (!) zipper insertion:

Here's a picture of the back with my matching What Katie Did purple seamed stocking (yay!) and you can maybe glimpse my feeble attempt at a waistcoat tie at the back (do those things actually have a purpose??)

So the skirt has been in the closet for ages (7 years!) but it lacked any companions. I'm actually not that great with separates – I much prefer dresses unless I make the separates to go with each other at the start!

So for the blouse, I turned to a 1970s pattern (McCall's 4609):

I've been wanting to add some me-made pussybow blouses to my collection --it's such a timeless look.  So I had some purple silk fabric and thought that might be a perfect companion to my purple wool skirt.  I had partially cut out the fabric about 2 years ago --so it was great to revisit that (I actually cut out TWO pussybow blouses--the other one is almost done as well!)

However, as I was finishing cutting out, I realised I would not have enough fabric for two long sleeves!  And McCall's 4609 doesn't have a short sleeve option. I thought about what type of sleeve might work best with this silky fabric and decided to go very minimal.  So enter Sewaholic Patterns 'Alma' and their flutter sleeve!

Overall, I think it works well!  I do wish I had more of this fabric because then I could make a matching jacket.  But I think this is the perfect seasonal transition outfit (wool BUT short sleeves).

And last but certainly not least is Style 637 – the most exquisite 1950s waistcoat pattern:

I've had really good experiences with Style patterns from this era and this one is also fantastic. I just love the longer cut of the waistcoat, the faux tab pockets and the small buttons up the front.

Overall, really, really happy with the ensemble!  We took these photos in the Edinburgh Botanic Gardens and aren't the flowers CRAZY beautiful?  We sought out all the purple ones--and they are just so lovely and a fab backdrop to my purple ensemble :)

I really love this look and think I'll have to make more three-piece dress suits!  It's such a nice outfit for work!  I also think I don't have nearly enough purple in my wardrobe. I tend to wear more blues, reds and pinks and purple is a nice subtle but warm change.

I also think it's fun to mix and match decades!  Wouldn't that be a fun challenge? The three decades challenge--try and sew or wear pieces from three different decades in one outfit....hmmm...maybe I will have to host something like that :)

Hair: Vanity Thrills
Photography: Darja Bilyk
Location: Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh

Butterick 6055: The 'Ice Princess Dress'

Move over Elsa, there's a new Ice Princess in town.  I am beyond excited to share my most recent make on my newly relaunched blog (*squealing with excitement*).  As with a lot of my upcoming makes, this was an 'unfinished object' or UFO in sewing world lingo.  I originally started cutting out the pieces to this dress during December 2016!

I used a Butterick reissued retro pattern originally from the year 1950.  I just fell in love with the bodice shape, the collar, raglan sleeves and the pockets...oh the pockets!!

As many of you know, I sew primarily with true vintage patterns and have hit or miss success with reissued or new pattens.  But this pattern is PHENOMENAL. I adore it so much (already dreaming of all the pretty fabrics I could make it in as well as SOLIDS with contrasting bows...gah, the possibilities are endless!)

The fabric is a great polished cotton snowflake print that I picked up in the Philippines in 2016.  The fabric is gorgeous --beautiful and sparkly.  This poor fabric and pattern were sitting in my projects storage box (oh yes, I have several projects started but not finished).  Then something extraordinary happened. It snowed A LOT in Edinburgh.  This is pretty rare. I know you think it would snow a lot here since we are so far north but that last time I remember snow that stuck for multiple days was in 2010.

Suddenly this project sprung to the top of my sewing queue and with gusto! I really wanted to finish this great pattern and capture the beautiful fabric with a snowy Edinburgh backdrop.  I seriously felt like I was back in my 'Sew Weekly' days with adrenaline pumping to finish this dress before all the snow melted!  It was such a nice change to be so focused on one project.

I'm so giddy with how it turned out. I just adore the pattern and fit.  And those pockets with the adorable little bows (which thankfully don't have to be turned inside out to be sewn. phew! thank you Butterick!)

I didn't really spend much time on pattern matching since the snowflakes are a bit asymmetrical across the fabric.  I also really like how the pockets blend in slightly until you see that sweet little detail.

The dress closes with a side zipper and I'm really pleased with the bodice fit.  The collar got a bit tricky but only because I used some fusible interfacing that got a bit wrinkly and required lots of coaxing with the iron to straighten out.

Looking at the fit of the back, I could probably have taken a quarter of an inch off the back to prevent the wrinkling...but not bad overall.  And unlike the early 1940s patterns – attaching the bodice to the skirt is super easy (right sides together unlike the overlapped and topstitched early 40s patterns).

And boy, did Edinburgh cooperate with the naturally beautiful backdrop. I literally feel like a snow princess in these photos which were taken by the seriously talented @Dashiee (on instagram) in Holyrood Park.  It seriously looks like we are deep in the Highlands!

And the dress (and backdrop) match my vintage accessories. I got the late 1920s ermine cape from Judy's Affordable Vintage Fair in Edinburgh about a year ago and I literally bought the white muff on a whim two weekends ago from my dear friend Rachel's vintage store (Carnivale Vintage) before this dress was a serious contender for finishing.  I'm so glad I did--isn't it cute (and very functionally warm)?

Yippeee....LOVE this dress and look forward to making more with this pattern.  And a perfect project to celebrate the relaunch of my blog :)

A Vintage Lover's Guide to the Fringe - Part 2

Music:
     Carole Kidd Sings Cole Porter - Carole Kidd with Brian Kellock, piano
     "Scotland's First Lady of Jazz... don't miss this relaxed and intimate evening of great music 
     performed by two great artists." 
     The Brunton * Ladywell Way, Musselburgh EH21 6AA * Aug 10: 19:30 (2hrs) £15.50/£13.50

     Christine Bovill's Piaf - Christine Bovill
     "Grown men wept." - EdinburghFestival.org
     The Famous Spiegeltent * 54 George Street, EH2 2LR * Aug 2-3, 8-11, 21-25: 20:30 (1h)
     £17.00/£15.00

     The Gramaphone Jazz Band's Late Night Speakeasy - The Gramophone Jazz Band
     "...sip classic teacup cocktails and enjoy the live music and 78s from the prohibition era."
     Henry's Cellar Bar * 16a Morrison Street, EH3 8BJ * Aug 6, 8, 13, 15, 20: 23:50 (3h) £8.00/£6.00

     The Genius of Jerome Kern - Ensemble
     "Fife operatic group Ensemble presents a magical evening of Kern... showcasing his most famous
     work, Showboat." 
     St Andrews and St Georges West * 13 George Street, EH2 2PA * Aug 25: 19:30 (2hrs)
     £10.00/£8.00

     The Jive Aces - King of the Swingers Tour - The Jive Aces
     "UK's No. 1 jive band and stars of Britain's Got Talent." 
     Assembly George Square * George Square, EH8 9LH * Aug 12: 18:10 (1hr) £10.00

     John Hunt Four O'Clock Afternoon Blues & Swing -John Hunt & 21st Century Blues Legends
     "Boogie-woogie.   Hunt is a master of the slide guitar." ****(Scotsman)
     The Jazz Bar * 1a Chambers Street, EH1 1HR * Aug 3, 8, 17, 24: 19:00 (1hr)
     £8.00/£7.00

    Little Jazz Bird -Victoria Bennett
     "...Victoria Bennett has a talent for interpretation and a whimsical approach to melody."
     The Jazz Bar * 1a Chambers Street, EH1 1HR * Aug 3-4, 8-10, 15-17, 22-24: 16:00 (1hr)
     Aug 15: 20:30 (1hr)  £6.00/£5.00

     Orkney Jazz at the Guildford - Ken Ramage & Friends10th Annual Jazz Jamboree
     ".New Orleans to Dixie to Swing and more."
     The Guildford Arms * 1 West Register Street, EH2 2AA * Aug 2-14: 21:00 (3hrs)   Free
   
     Peter Straker's Brel - Peter Straker
     "...a barnstorming performance covering the songs and life of [Jacques] Brel." *****(Scotsman)
     Assembly Checkpoint * 3 Bristo Place, EH1 1EY * Aug 1-2: 16:55 (55min) £10.00 Aug 3-6,
     10-11, 16-18, 23-25: 16:55 (55min) £14.00/£13.00 Aug 7-8, 13-15, 15-20, 22-26: 16:55 (55min)
     £13.00/£12.00.    And no, I don't know why the pricing varies so.  I hear he's worth it.
     Aug 15: 20:30 (1hr)  £6.00/£5.00
 
     The Rat Pack - Live - Louis Hartshorn and Brian Hook in association with C
     "...Frank, Sammy, and Dean hit the stage with their 12-piece jazz orchestra."
     C * Chambers Street, EH1 1HR * Aug 2, 12, 19, 20: 19:20 (55min) £10.50/£8.50
     Aug 3, 6, 9, 11, 16-18, 23-26: 19:20 (55min) £12.50/£10.50

     Sing Sing Swing - Swing Sensation & Guests
     "A toe-tapping hour of vocals from the era when big band swing was king..."
     St Andrews and St Georges West * 13 George Street, EH2 2PA * Aug 24: 14:30 (1hr) £9.00/£7.00

Musicals:
     The Ivor Novello Story - (by arrangement with Samuel French, Ltd.)
     "Ivor Novello captured the ease and diffident charm of the world between the wars.  Cairney's 
     script brings this man of the theatre, and  musician of real worth, to life." 
     St Cuthbert's Parish Church * 5 Lothian Road, EH1 2EP * Aug 12-14: 16:30 (2hrs) £12.00/£10.00

      Keep Smiling Through - Claire Evans
     "A nostalgic look back at the 1940s, evoking memories of the dance hall through the well-loved 
     songs of that era." 
     The Space@Symposium Hall * Hill Square, EH8 9 DR * Aug 3: 16:30 (1hr) £11.00/£8.00
     Aug 7, 13, 15, 19, 21: 16:20 (1hr) 

     The Seven Deadly Sins - A Scottish Opera and Company Chordelia Co-production
     "Kurt Weil and Bertolt Brecht's sassy 1930s satire is a remarkable fusion of opera, 
     dance, and theatre.  Sharp and sexy, this award-winning show embodies the glamour, and
     the desperation of the time." 
     Patterson's Land * 37 Holyrood Road EH8 8AQ * Aug 20-22: 20:00 (45min) £12.50/£10.00
     Aug 21, 23: 12:30 (45min)  £12.50/£10.00

     Sinatra: The Final Curtain - Kingdom Theatre Company
     "With live vocals, the crooner sees his former self as he faces the final curtain." 
     Whitespace * 11 Gayfield Square, EH1 3NT * Aug 9-11, 13-18, 20-24: 20:15
     (1hr 15min) £12.50/£10.00
     Aug 21, 23: 12:30 (45min)  £10.50

Theatre:
     Desdemona, a Play About a Hankerchief - 4Theatre Productions
     "A contemporary twist on Shakespeare's Othello.  Set in the Roaring 20s with live music..." 
     Sweet Grassmarket * Apex International Hotel * 31-35 Grassmarket, EH1 2HS *
     Aug 2-11: 16:20 (40min) £8.00/£6.00

      I'll Be Seeing You - Between The Bars
     "A dramatic and poignant insight into life in Cambridge during the Second World War." 
     Paradise in the Vault * 11 Merchant Street, EH1 2QD * Aug 3-4: 17:25 (1hr 20min) £8.00
     Aug 5-11, 13-18, 20-26: 15:55 (1hr 20min)  £8.00

     The Lady Vanishes - Big Spirit Theatre
     "It's 1936 and Iris Henderson wants to get home to England.   The only thing is, the old lady
     who sits opposite has vanished and Iris has to find out where she is!" 
     Paradise in Augustine's * 41 George IV Bridge, EH1 1EL * Aug 20-24: 14:20 (55min) £8.00

     The Lost Gatsby - 8pB Theatre Company
     "In 1926 a silent adaptation of The Great Gatsby was produced by Paramount Pictures, and
     even to this day, all evidence of the production...lost.  Follow 8pB as they delve into the mystery
     of The Lost Gatsby." 
     The Space@Surgeon's Hall * Nicholson Street, EH8 9DW * Aug 12-17: 12:55 (1hr) £8.00/£6.00

     Our Friends, The Enemy - Alex Gwyther
     "Christmas, 1914:  Allied and German soldiers stand opposite one another.  What follows
     are some of the most astounding and undocumented stories of the Great War, told through the 
     eyes of one soldier." 
     The Space@Surgeon's Hall * Nicholson Street, EH8 9DW * Aug 2-3, 5-10, 12-17, 19-24:
     18:05 (50min) £8.00/£7.00

     Tea at Five - Old Joint Stock Theatre Company
     "...Matthew Lombardo's stage adaptation of fiery screen star Katherine Hepburn's memoirs..." 
     The Space@Surgeon's Hall * Nicholson Street, EH8 9DW * Aug 2-3, 5-11, 19-24: 11:05 (50min)
     £7.00/£6.00

A Vintage Lover's Guide to the Fringe Festival

     This year's Fringe Festival began this week; and that means our city's population has more than doubled in size; music, art, and performance rule the days and nights, ending with spectacular midnight fireworks!
     This is by no means an exhaustive list, just a wee sampling of some of the hundreds of events and performances occurring in our city this month.  Click on the links below to find out more about each event.  

Dance: 
     Dance Derby - A Company Chordelia & Scottish Opera Co-production
           "...a jazz ensemble and soprano Nadine Livingston bring the drama of the 1930s dance marathons to life."           
          Patterson's Land * 37 Holyrood, EH8 8AQ * Aug 14-17: 20:00 (1hr) £12.50/£10.00

     Tap Into Health:  Movin' With Melvin - Movin' Melvin Brown
          "...tap, juke dancing, clogging, jazz, swing...tap shoes not required.  Fun for everybody!"
          C * Chambers Street, EH1 1HR * Aug 3-4, 18, 25-26: 11:00 (1hr)  £14.50/£9.50

Events:
     Hendrick's Parlour Bar
     "A swell place to get spifflicated!  Boop-boop-be-doo! Hic!" 
     Hendrick's Carnival of Knowledge * 1 Royal Circus, EH3 6TL * Aug 8-9, 11 (11h) Free

     Tea Dance - Flyright Dance Company w/the Nova Scotia Jazz Band
     We love the Flyright Dance Company - last year we joined them in dancing into the Guinness Book of World Records for the most people simultaneously dancing the Foxtrot.  "Micro dance classes, tea/coffee and scone included."  
     The Brunton * Ladywell Way, Musselburgh, EH21 6AA * Aug 10, 24: 14:00 (2hr) £14

      The Loveboat Big Band Summer Love-In - The Loveboat Big Band
      "...a multi-dimensional musical cruise featuring aerialists All or Nothing and the Miss.Fit Sisters, McFall's Chamber, Horndog Brass Band, DJs and surprises galore." 
     Sumerhall * 1 Summerhall, EH9 1QH * Aug 2, 9, 16, 23: 22:30 (4hr 30min) £16.00/14.00

Exhibitions:
     A Patchwork of Leith Memories:  Photos and stories of Leith, Edinburgh 
     "Picturing Leith's Past through a great selection of unpublished photographs and memories."  
     Living Memory Association * 5 Quayside Street, EH6 6EJ * Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00 Free

Music:
     Anything Goes - A Tribute to Cole Porter - Pam Lawson

     "Join Pam and her four-piece band to celebrate Cole Porter's genius." 
     The Outhouse * 12a Broughton Street Lane, EH1 3LY * Aug 19-22, 19:00 (1h) £10.00/£9.00

     Bewitched, Bothered, and Bewildered - Lorna Reid
     "Lorna Reid and band perform spellbinding songs.  Rogers & Hart, Gershwin to Tom Waits and Joni Mitchell, plus acclaimed originals." 
     The Jazz Bar * 1a Chambers Street, EH1 1HR * Aug 22-23, 19:00 (1h) £8.00/£6.00

     Beyond the Great American Songbook - John Muriello, baritone and David Gompper, piano.
     "...cabaret songs by William Bolcom, Richard Pearson Thomas, and Marc Blitzstein..."
     St Andrews and St Georges West * 13 George Street, EH2 2PA * Aug 7-8, 12:30 (1h) £9.00/£7.00

     Big Band Swing - Jon Ritchie's Swing Sensation Big Band
     Debi and I love the Swing Sensation Big Band.  "If swing's your thing, don't miss it." 
     The Outhouse * 12a Broughton Street Lane, EH1 3LY * Aug 19-22, 19:00 (1h) £10.00/£9.00

More music and events to be posted tomorrow.   If you're here in Edinburgh, enjoy the Fringe! 

B is for Border Prints

I am super excited that I managed to get at least one summer dress out of summer this year!  Not that we really had a summer here in Scotland, but that's besides the point.  The best part?  I got to use some delicious border print fabric that I got during our Crafters' Ceilidh meet-up last January!!

My mind automatically associates border prints with 1950's dresses.  So that's exactly what I made.  I used Simplicity 4209 which was a gift from a lovely reader and fellow seamstress.  I just love the gathered skirt and the drape of the neckline.

My border print fabric is a medium-weight dressmaking cotton--so it's a little heavy for the draped neckline but holds the skirt gathers beautifully.  This border print was fantastic in that half of the fabric was pure white and the other half was the border print--making it super easy to make a dress out of it.  While white isn't a colour I usually choose, I was sold on the bright teal tulips with brown accents.

The dress closes with a full bodice length zipper down the back.  I followed the directions and inserted a lapped zipper which I am pretty chuffed with.

Oh--I just love this hairdo!  This was part of my Dixiebelle's Vintage Hair and Beauty Parlour treat to myself.  Ariana, my lovely hairstylist, put it up into the most beautiful 50's inspired hairdo.  I even like how it looks in the curlers :)

Here is a photo of Ariana and I! Can't you see how pleased I am with my new 'do?  So much fun to properly celebrate a new dress!

We found a golden patch of flowers and thought that was perfect for the tulip inspired 50's dress!  YAY! Super happy to be back sewing again, especially since the last garments I made were for the mammoth graduation project.  Sometimes it takes awhile to get back into the swing after such a big project but this was the perfect summer sewing interlude!

Betty's Riding Jacket and Bow Tie Blouse

First, I wanted to thank all of you for your prayers and thoughts for Kal who went missing two weeks ago.  I've just received good news today! She was found safe and well in Cornwall.  I don't know the details yet but I'm SO RELIEVED!

In other good news...I finished Betty's riding jacket and bow-tied blouse and it's featured today over at The Sew Weekly!!

First, let's talk about this blouse.  I LOVE this blouse.  I got this pattern in the post as a gift from Mrs C who blogs over at the Hectic Eclectic as a little thank you gift for the Sew Grateful week (how sweet is that?)  I must say that I actually gasped when I saw the pattern because it was Betty Draper's riding blouse--a perfect match!  I had been searching high and low for such a pattern.

Can I just say that I might be in love with Maudella patterns?  This was a superbly drafted pattern and was very easy to sew up.  The pattern itself is unprinted and the only instructions are all in text printed on the back of the pattern envelope.  Surprisingly, I found the text only instructions easy to follow.  The only tricky part was that pattern pieces didn't have numbers, instead they had names.  So at one point it was a bit confusing as to which facing pieces belonged to which sleeve version!

I made the blouse from a nice weight blue cotton sateen.  I had the exact matching buttons in my stash as well! I really like the shape of this blouse and it goes perfectly under a tailored jacket.

Now onto the jacket.  I used McCall 3260 which is a pattern from 1939.  I love how this pattern transcends time and looks almost modern.  It features a notched collar (or a collarless version), neatly shaped front pockets, a pleated sleevecap and a fairly straight sleeve.

The pattern instructions are very complete and include instructions on interlining the facing and collar (which I did with muslin), using tailor's tape as well as lining instructions.  I didn't have any tailor's tape so I just cut thin pieces of fusible interfacing and placed it just inside the seam line all the way down the front facing of the jacket and also in the collar. 

And wow, what a difference that makes to having a crisp edge.  I didn't use interfacing anywhere else in the jacket as per the pattern instructions.

I forgot to mention the fabric.  This is a British lightweight wool that I got on a super sale at my local fabric store (with a groupon voucher no less).  I LOVE this fabric.

I was very careful in cutting out the fabric to try and match up the plaid stripes.  Can I just say that I love the shape of the pockets as well--a neat crescent shaped opening at the top of an otherwise normal patch pocket.  Topstitching pockets always makes me nervous, though!

 I lined the jacket with some remnant mystery fabric that I got in San Fransisco (when Mena introduced me to all her crazy amazing fabric haunts) for $1.  I believe it is also some sort of sateen.  It's not your normal lining fabric and has a medium-hand.  I really like the structure it gives to the jacket.  I also forgot when I was inserting the lining: a) how much time it takes to hand sew it down, and b) how you need to leave quite a bit of ease in the lining fabric. 

Here's a photo at dusk.  I just love how the light plays off the almost budding tree stems:

Since we are on the topic of riding....I want to introduce you to Megan who is a member of our family.  This photo was taken at one of the riding stables in Washington:

We've had Megan for 24 years and she's definitely my mom's baby (we often joke that she's the other sibling).  She's now 30 years old (!) and living in happy retirement with lots of fresh grass and regular brushing.  Isn't she a cutie?  She's a 5.11 hand Morgan horse and just an absolute (and spoiled) sweetheart.  This is me in my early teens.  And my goodness, what is going on with my hair in this photo?  ;)

What about you? Horse-lover or scared to death of horses?