W is for Wool

Ah, wool. My absolute favourite type of fabric!  I think nearly a third of all my sewing projects use some form of wool.  It's perfect for Scottish weather and fits with my style preference for tailored garments.  In fact, I think it might be the most amazing fabric ever....

Here is what the Simplicity Fabric Guide says about wool:

Wool is somewhat of a wonder fiber.  It drapes beautifully, cuts cleanly, won't fray and holds its shape in a finished garment.  It is also a quite forgiving fabric: Pins won't mar the surface, seams rip out invisibly and just about any trouble spot can be pressed and seamed into submission.

Wool fibers are very resilient.  They can be bent back on themselves 20,000 times without breaking, and can stretch up to 50 percent when wet and 30 percent when dry and still bounce back to their original shape.  Able to absorb 30 percent of its weight in moisture without feeling damp or clammy, wool is also a wonderful temperature regulator, making it a great option for jackets, coats and other outerwear.

Here's some of the various types of wool fabrics I have used in past projects:

Wool Flannel:

The 'Spring Suit' using an EvaDress reproduction of a 1931 McCall pattern

Medium-weight Wool:

The 'Shades of Purple' Outfit using a 1970s Simplicity pattern

Light-weight Wool:

'39 Steps to a Perfect Dress' Ensemble with Gabardine jacket using a 1937 McCall pattern

Gabardine:

The 'Famous Hooded Princess Dress' made with a 1940 McCall pattern

Wool Crepe:

The 'First Crepe of Summer' Dress using a 1940 McCall pattern

Tweed:

The 'Marlene Suit' made with a 1939 McCall jacket pattern and a 1941 Simplicity reproduction pattern for the trousers

Cashmere:

The 'Angels Culottes' made from a 1970s Simplicity pattern

Wool Jersey:

The 'Aviator Dress' made with wool jersey sleeves and viscose dress material using a 1946 Advance pattern

I've definitely tried lots of different types of wool.  I particularly love lightweight wool--it's hard to walk past that aisle in the Edinburgh fabric shops without 'oohing and ahhing' and touching all the fabrics.  I'm a recent convert to both wool crepe (which is oddly expensive here in the UK compared to all the other fabulous wools) and wool jersey (also in short supply).  And I have yet to dive into some Harris Tweed.  I need to save up to get some of that delicious fabric and support this local industry!!

Have you seen Karen's recent post on Wool with all the fabulous resources?  I love all the different varieties of wool.

What about you? Can you get nice wool locally?  Which type of wool fabric is your favourite?  Any wooly projects on your sewing horizon?

V is for Velvet

Thank you for your lovely comments on my last post about my most recent 1940 McCall make!

Today, I'm focusing on one of my favourite fabrics, Velvet.  Velvet is so lush and comes in different weights and textures, and is such a perfect fabric for special winter occasions!  It is, however, a bit sensitive to treatment, especially ironing.  Here's what my vintage 1950s sewing book says about ironing velvet and velveteen:

I don't actually have a velvet press board and I use other napped fabric (often pieces of the same velvet I am pressing) instead.  This works well on cotton velvet but may not work on other types of velvet like silk velvet, which I imagine would be more sensitive.  I've never actually sewn with silk velvet, but I really want to give it a try--maybe a nice holiday dress?

Here's a photo from my 1940s singer sewing book about how to steam velvet seams.  I use this method a lot when working with velvet:

Another close-up of a velvet pressing board:

So far, I've made two velvet dresses.  Both of the dresses were made from velvet curtain fabric that I had found in charity shops.  The first one I made from a 1939 McCall pattern:

I love the dress but the velvet is quite thick and warm--perfect for winter.

The other dress I made from a 1950s Butterick pattern:

The cotton velvet has a nice weight for the full skirt and this velvet dress gets much more wear because of the holiday/festive colour!

I have two patterns that would be fabulous in velvet, especially silk velvet:

The first one is a 1940 McCall pattern and the second is from the early 1930s.

I'm curious, have you ever sewn with silk velvet?  Do you use a velvet pressing board?

U is for Underlining

The ABC's of vintage sewing series is back--and we are in the home stretch, picking up the alphabet again with the letter 'U'.

Underlining is a common vintage (and modern) sewing technique in which two pieces of fabric are sewn together and treated as one.  This is often done for several reasons:

1. Stabilising loosely woven fabrics:

Using underlining for stabilising fabrics was a revelation to me!  I am often drawn to wonderful silky tweeds or handwoven fabrics--many of which are delicate or tend to unravel easily.  Once I learned I could underline these fabrics, my sewing world changed!  I could now use these fabrics even in very tailored garments such as the 'Kitten Dress' which used Butterick pattern 2181 from the 1950s.

2. Add bulk/warmth to fabrics:

I often think of interlining being used more for adding warmth, but you can also use underlining.  I tend to like to use underlining on thin fabrics like the poly-blend fabric I used for my 'Paddington Goes to Scotland Dress' from the 1960s.  This pattern actually recommended underlining and I'm glad I did it, not just for warmth and adding bulk but also to have a nicer feeling fabric against my skin!

3. Prevent garments from being see-through:

I use underlining a lot when sewing with white--to prevent the final garment from being too see-through.  In these instances, I usually just underline the bodice like I did in my 'Hawk's Eye View Dress' which I made with a Japanese textured cotton fabric for the bodice.

Underlining Resources:

• The amazing Lauren who blogs over at Lladybird did a great post on underlining showing step-by-step pictures,
• Also check out this great article from Threads on underlining,
• Tasia who blogs over at Sewaholic put together a fantastic post on underlining a dress bodice,
• Gertie also has a video on underlining a skirt: 

Have you underlined any projects recently?  What's the main reason you underline your garments?

T is for Tucks

The ABCs of Vintage Sewing series is back!  I hope you didn't think I abandoned it after the letter 'S'? (ahem).  Today's letter 'T' is all about tucks!  A tuck is a fold in the fabric that is sewn into place.  When the tucks are small and placed closed together, they are called 'pintucks'.

According to the 1943 edition of the 'Complete Book of Sewing' by Constance Talbot:

"In soft materials, tucks control fullness and take the place of darts.  These are marked in the pattern or must be planned to give fullness where it is needed.  A large tuck at the shoulder line is sometimes used to cover the shoulder seam... Every tuck in a group must be exactly the same width, and the space between tucks must be carefully measured."

Tucks are a very common feature of vintage sewing, existing in fashions from almost every decade.   Historically, tucks were also used to shorten a finished garment--so that it could be subsequently lengthened later by removing the tucks.  This was especially popular for children's garments.  Of course, this could be done in the opposite way as is mentioned in Louisa May Alcott's book, Little Women when Amy says:

"My only comfort," she said to Meg, with tears in her eyes, "is that Mother doesn't take tucks in my dresses whenever I'm naughty, as Maria Parks's mother does.  My dear, it's really dreadful, for sometimes she is so bad her frock is up to her knees, and she can't come to school.     -Chapter 4 {source} 

Here's a look at different styles and uses of tucks in vintage sewing patterns throughout the decades:

1930s:

1. Companion Butterick 8315 pattern, available at Adele Bee Ann Patterns Etsy Store; 2. 1930s Day Slip, various sizes, available at Mrs Depew Vintage Etsy store; 3. 1938 McCall dress pattern, available at Cynical Girl's Etsy Store; 4. 1930s nightgown in various sizes, available at Mrs Depew Vintage Etsy Store; 5. 1930s New York 632 Pattern, available at JFerrari Designs Etsy Store; 6. 1930s Simplicity 3152 dress pattern, available at Pattern and Stitch Etsy Shop

I just love the tucks of the 1930's.  They often appear in the form of very small pintucks but give such amazing detail to any garment.  I love that the detail also appears on everyday wear like nightgowns!!

1940s: 

1. McCall 7663 dress pattern, available at J Ferrari Designs Etsy Shop; 2. DuBarry 6044 halter top pattern, available at Cynical Girl's Etsy Shop; 3. McCall 5881 skirt pattern, available at Adele Bee Ann Patterns Etsy Shop; 4. Advance 4769 blouse pattern, available at RetroMonkeys' Etsy Shop; 5. McCall 7203 dress pattern, available at Floradora Presents Etsy Shop; 6. Simplicity 4566 blouse pattern, available at Cynical Girl's Etsy Shop

When I think about tucks, I automatically think of the 1940s.  I just love the use of tucks in blouses and shirt dresses and also the innovative use of tucks like in the halter top (#2) and horizontal decorative tucks (#5) in the patterns above.


1950s:

1. Marian Martin 9090 dress pattern, available at Floradora Presents Etsy Shop; 2. McCall 5038 dress pattern, available at RetroMonkeys' Etsy Shop; 3. Simplicity 2033 dress pattern, available at J Ferrari Designs Etsy Shop; 4. Simplicity 4556 dress pattern, available at Adele Bee Ann Patterns Etsy Shop; 5. Butterick 6293 dress pattern, available at Cynical Girl's Etsy Shop; 6. Butterick 5694 blouse pattern, available at RetroMonkeys' Etsy Shop

The 1950s also made innovative use of tucks to give the beautiful feminine 50s silhouette by taking out fullness at the waistline, bust area or hipline.  I just love all these pattern examples!


Sewing Tucks:


One of the best links for sewing perfect tucks is the tutorial from Tilly and the Buttons.  While you are at it, check out her delicious Mathilde blouse pattern and her latest creation, the Miette skirt pattern!

Have you worked at all with tucks or pintucks?  I just love them as a vintage style detail!

S is for Shirtwaister

A shirtwaister is a dress with a tailored bodice that resembles a shirt.  This style has been popular throughout the decades.  I find it to be a very flattering style, don't you?

Here's a few photos of shirtwaisters throughout the decades with links on where to find these patterns.

1930s:

1. Simplicity 2206 available at Nostalgia Vintage 2 Etsy shop; 2. Simplicity 1736 available at Rainbow Valley Vintage Etsy shop; 3. Simplicity 3103 available at Cottage Lane Treasures's Etsy shop; 4. DuBarry 2183B available at DaisyEpochVintage's Etsy shop

1940s

1. McCall 4562 available at Opal Owl Vintage Etsy Shop; 2. Simplicity 2901 available at Old Fashioned Notions Etsy shop; 3. Simplicity 2398 available at Aunt Nonnies Nest Etsy shop; 4. Advance 2665 from Miss Betty's Attic Etsy shop.

1950s

1.Advance 9771 available at the Dancing Bumblebee Cottage Etsy shop; 2.Simplicity 1427 available at the Atomic Regeneration Etsy shop; 3. Simplicity 4731 available at Dizzy Dame Dresses Etsy shop; 4. Butterick 5841 available at Raiment Revival's Etsy shop.

1960s

1. Butterick 2458 available at Sydcam123's Etsy shop; 2. Butterick 1960s pattern available at Lam4UK's Etsy shop;

3. Simplicity 5800 available at Farmhouse Garden's Etsy shop; 4. Simplicity 5445 available at Grandma's Cedar Chest Etsy shop; 

Me-Made Shirtwaister
I've only made one shirtwaister (so far) but I wear it all the time!  I definitely have more shirtwaisters planned in my sewing queue as it's such an easy and flattering style to wear.  I particularly like making 50s shirtwaisters from novelty fabrics!

My 'Midcentury Madness' shirtwaister made from Style Print 1283

Sunni who blogs over at A Fashionable Stitch recently hosted a Shirtdress sewalong.  While she used a modern pattern, a lot of the techniques she covered would be helpful for sewing up a vintage shirtwaister.

Have you made any shirtwaisters?  Do you have any currently in your sewing queue?

R is for Ruffles

I so wish I could roll my r's to say the word rrrrrrruffles.  A feature on ruffles was hands down my choice for the letter 'R'.  I love ruffles and I love how they have evolved throughout fashion history from their glamorous use in the 1930s, to their bohemian turned girl-next-door look of the 40s to the domestic goddess look of the 50s.  Ruffles as a garment feature can be both classy and playful.  In my own style preference which is probably closest to a 1940s 'femininely tailored' look, I love pairing ruffled blouses or collar ruffles with tweed and other woolen suiting fabrics.

Here's some images (via Vintage Pattern Wiki and Etsy.com) showing the use of ruffles throughout the decades in sewing patterns:

1930s

1940s

1950s

My Me-Made Creations with Ruffles:

Photos 1 & 2: 1941 McCall Apron, Photo 3: Deco the Halls 1933 Tunic and Photo 4: 1944 Simplicity ruffled dickey

What about you? Do you like wearing ruffles?  Sewing ruffles?

Q is for Quilting

Or more specifically, a type of quilting I am absolutely in love with....Trapunto Quilting.  Trapunto is the Italian word for 'to embroider' and is a type of quilting that creates a raised pattern in material through a method of padding and stitching.  It is seen quite a lot in 1930s and 1940s fashion.

Here is a page from my 1935 Needlewoman magazine showing the latest fashion houses' Trapunto designs:

Here's a great Trapunto design on a 1940s dress from Etsy:

Two great links for Trapunto quilting includes this great tutorial and video link from the QuiltsALott blog and this link to a great pinterest board on Trapunto designs.

Don't you just love it?  I definitely want to try my hand at Trapunto quilting and have the perfect pattern in McCall 840 from 1941:

I've had this pattern in my collection for some time, I just love the design (looks almost Scottish or Celtic).  When I found the pattern again for a steal in my size, I bought it again so that I could give one away for someone else to try their hand at a vintage Trapunto pattern!  I'm hosting the giveaway for McCall 840 in size 14 (or Bust 32) over at my Facebook page (there's a link to my Facebook page in my right sidebar) where it's easier to keep track of entries and notify the winner.  Hop on over and enter to win!  I'll ship anywhere.  It will be fun to have a sewing buddy who's making this at the same time as me :)

Have you ever tried Trapunto?  What do you think?

P is for Vintage Patterns

I don't think it will come as any surprise to you that I have a serious weak spot for vintage sewing patterns.  I, um, *cough*, obsessively regularly troll vintage pattern websites for goodies.  So I thought I would put together an updated list of vintage pattern sellers building on the original list I posted last year.  I've purchased from nearly every single one of these pattern sellers!  My major weaknesses?  1940 McCall, 1950s Style and Style Print, 1927 McCall and Advance Import Adaptation patterns.

The two sites I check daily?  

1. Ebay (including Ebay UK), and
2. Etsy

I've had some really good luck lately on both Ebay and Etsy.  This pattern just came in the mail today bought off ebay:

It was $6 buy it now! $6!!!!! for a hooded 1940 jacket.  These sort of deals are few and far between but it's so much fun when they do pop up!  

Both Ebay and Etsy are great for buyers.  When I eventually open up a pattern shop (don't be fooled--this is not an income generating initiative but simply a way to support my own pattern buying habits, lol), I will definitely go with an Etsy shop.  Etsy is such a great community and it seems to me is also more seller friendly than Ebay.

An invaluable resource for Ebay is Collector's Weekly.  They have a vintage pattern section that lists the most popular patterns currently listed on ebay by highest price but also by most watched.  This is a great resource because if there is a pattern you are watching you can look at this list and see if it is on it AND you can tell how many other people are watching it!!  It changes daily.  You can also check lots of other ebay listings (they have a section for vintage sewing machines, 1940's hats, etc.).

Etsy is a treasure trove of patterns and it has the added benefit of not having bidding.  That said, if you see something for a really good price you have to act quick (especially for 1930's and early 40's patterns).  Oftentimes sellers won't have the option for shipping to the UK.  I have found most sellers are willing to ship and will add that option after I contact them to find out how much it will be.  If you really love a pattern and it's for a good price, ask the seller to reserve the pattern for you while they add the UK or overseas shipping option.  Just be sure if you do ask a seller to reserve a pattern for you that you go and buy it in a short timeframe (I would say within 24 hours if it is a cheaper item--you can ask for longer if it is a seller you know or the item is more expensive).

There aren't many 1930's or earlier patterns on Etsy for cheap--but occasionally you'll find a gem and then you have to act quickly!  There are lots of etsy sellers that I love for patterns: Patterns from the Past, Sydcam123, Selvedge Shop, Wearing History, KallieDesigns, CherryBubblesVintage, MidValeCottage, Pattern Peddler, Erika with a K, She'll Make You Flip, Sew Vintage Ladies, Atomic Redhead, HelaQ, PatternVault, Aunt Nonnies Nest, ZipZapKap and NewVintageLady to name a few.  There are loads more and oftentimes the best thing to do is to search by the specific pattern company or by decade to see what comes up!    

Here's a recent pattern I purchased from Sydcam123:

There aren't many sellers for the UK, but Top Tottie's Vintage has fabulous vintage clothes and sometimes has 1930's patterns!

There are lots of independent websites for vintage patterns and some have really good deals (and many ship to the UK and elsewhere).  

• Wicked Lady Collectables: A UK online pattern shop! whoohooo!
• Best Vintage Patterns: One of the best vintage pattern sites (no pun intended) I have seen, unfortunately, they don't ship internationally.  But if you know someone in the states that you can have the pattern mailed to--then it's perfect!

Here's one of my recent purchases from Best Vintage Patterns (yes, I am planning one venturing into some late 20's patterns):

• Woodland Farms Vintage:  This website is a treasure trove especially for early patterns. They ship internationally and you can also reserve items for 10 days (if you are an international customer) and they have layaway!
• Vintage Martini:  I'm so happy they've recently revamped their website making it so much easier to buy patterns online.  I've always been very happy with the service given by Vintage Martini.
• Main Street Mall Online, Vintage Patterns:  This includes several independent online stores including Stitches and Loops, Miss Helene's Vintage Sewing Shoppe and Pattern Gate.  I just use the mall's homepage search engine to search all the shops at once.  It takes a while as all the pattern photos have to load but I like looking at all of them at once.
• What-I-found shop has a great collection and Tina has a lovely blog as well.  
• Patterns from the Past:  This website is great and just added a bunch of wonderful 1920 McCall patterns for sale!
• Lanetz Living: This pattern seller has lots of variety. Some weeks it's early 40's and 1930's, other weeks there are 50's and 60's gems.  Definitely add the Lanetz Living blog to your RSS feed as new patterns are featured once they go into the store. And they get snapped up pretty quickly as the prices are so reasonable.  Reasonable shipping as well.  I bought my 1930s McCall pattern here that I made my Gatsby dress from last year:

• Moms Patterns:  This is a great website and once you get on the mailing list, you'll receive lots of coupon codes for 10%, 20% and even 25% off patterns.  Plus, there is a point based system so that you can accrue points to be used for money off pattern purchases.  The website is updated daily and there is usually a note on the homepage about what patterns will be added to the site and when.  This is one of the websites that I check daily.  There is a great selection.
• Out of the Ashes:  A great website that also has a blog so that you can keep up with additions to the shop.  Shipping prices are very reasonable.
• Your Pattern Shop:  Good selection of patterns--prices are variable.  1st pattern ships for $5.50 to the UK (approx. £3.40)
• The Blue Gardenia: Denise has an amazing selection of 1930's and early 40's patterns--plus lots of gowns.  Denise also has a blog (with lots of giveaways) and good sales.  Shipping usually via flat rate envelope or free if within the U.S.
• So Vintage Patterns: A load of patterns with lots of gowns and updated almost daily.  I believe this site also has layaways and pretty affordable international shipping (though the patterns tend to be pricier--but you'll find lots of unique patterns here).  I like to window shop at this website.
• Vintage Stitching: Patterns start in the 1940's, good prices AND shipping is included in the prices of the pattern (for both domestic and international)!
• Dandelion Vintage: International Shipping dependent on location and weight of item(s).  Several 1940's patterns.
• Heavens to Betsy: Lots of vintage patterns starting at the 1940's, tend to be a bit more expensive, flat rate shipping of $6.00 and then will adjust according to actual cost.
• Davenport and Co.: Not sure if they have international shipping but have several vintage patterns...located in New England.
• Cemetarian: Lots of vintage patterns.  I've gotten a few 1940 patterns from them and I seem to remember the shipping being very reasonable.  Great section on dating vintage patterns.
• Tangerine Boutique: Several lovely 1930's patterns (mid to higher price range..i.e. $30-40)
• Hawk Crossing: Great selection of 1930's (and some reproduction patterns as well). Not sure about international shipping.
• Ballyhoo Vintage:  Variable prices and shipping via global priority mail (I'm assuming this is weight-based).
• Vintage British Style: A newly found vintage pattern website that I love!  Located in the UK with some fab-u-lous patterns.
• Serendipity Vintage: Another new-to-me vintage pattern website that has some great 40s and 50s patterns.
• Chantilly Dreams:  Another recently found website that sells vintage patterns (among other vintage goodies).  I recently bought this pattern from Chantilly Dreams:

Another EXCELLENT resource for dating vintage patterns but also for finding vintage pattern sellers is the Vintage Pattern Wiki.  I LOVE this wiki and can spend hours browsing the patterns!  Sometimes the patterns will have a link to a place where you can buy it.  I find many new sellers this way and find that sellers are very active in listing patterns in the Wiki.  Best way to find new uploads to the Wiki?  Go to the homepage and then click on any of the pattern brands (i.e. McCall).  Doing that will take you to a page that has a side bar that says "Latest photos" and "Recent Wiki Activity".  These two areas will list the most recent Wiki activity.  I usually look by photos and then check to see if any of them have associated vendor listings.  I usually check the Wiki daily (but again, we've already established that I'm a bit obsessed with vintage patterns :)

One of the best ways of getting a vintage pattern (especially 1930s) is by purchasing a reproduction pattern.  The great thing is that you get the pattern but on new stock paper (so it's not as fragile).  Plus, the repro pattern sellers are fantastic and often have great deals, competitions and discounts!  The only downside for international customers is that the shipping is often more (because they are a bit heavier).  Usually you can buy 2-3 repro patterns in a flat rate box BUT then you may get stuck with paying customs on the UK side.  

But these reproduction and vintage-inspired pattern sellers are fantastic:

1. Decades of Style: Some really cute 1930's patterns.
2. EvaDress:  EvaDress also has a blog and a yearly competition using one of their repro patterns. I've made two dress suits from 1930s EvaDress patterns.
3. Sense and Sensibility:  Mostly early regency patterns but they have an early 1940s swing dress pattern.
4. Vintage Fashion Library: This website sells both reproduction and original patterns. 
5. Vintage Pattern Lending Library:  A great selection of reproduction patterns from virtually every era.  Janyce is also organising the VPLL 1912 Project which is reproducing the patterns from 1912 La Mode Illustree (the premiere French fashion journal of it's time) patterns and coordinating a year-long community of sewers around the project.
6. Edelweiss Patterns: offers 30s and 40s Sound of Music inspired patterns.  Katrina also has a blog where she writes about her vintage sewing projects.
7. Wearing History:  Lauren from Wearing History (who also has a fabulous blog) sells both original vintage-inspired patterns and reproduction patterns.  I've made a 1930s gown pattern from a Wearing History pattern!
8. The Tailor's Apprentice: A newly found website with some wonderful vintage-inspired patterns.  Definitely check out the 1940s Sailor Suit and the Women's Land Army Overalls.

Phew! Sorry for all the text!  I'm sure I'm missing LOTS of links/resources!  What are your favorite vintage pattern sites and tips?  Are there other reproduction and/or vintage-inspired pattern sites?  What are your experiences of buying vintage patterns (especially if you live outside the U.S.)?  Any good resources for 1930's and early 1940's patterns you would like to share?

O is for Organza

Organza is a wonder fabric.  According to the July 2012 issue of Threads on tissue-weight fabrics, organza is a crisp, plain-weave fabric that has some bounce with a wiry hand, and a little sheen...crushes easily and is usually silk but can be made from manufactured fibers. 

I often see directions in vintage patterns to use organza for giving structure or in place of stay tape with softer fabrics.  The faux fur jacket I made from a 1940 Simplicity pattern had directions to use strips of organza along the front lines of the jacket:

I also use organza as a press cloth when ironing.  I like it for ironing because it's a strong fabric but it is also transparent which makes it easier to see what I'm doing.

Gertie has done some great posts on organza and it's use in couture sewing including: all organza is not created equal, using organza to stabilize a neckline, and underlining in silk organza.

Do you use organza in your sewing?  What do you use it for?