E is for Edge Finishes

Nothing says vintage sewing to me than edge (or seam) finishing techniques!  While the actual techniques have changed very little through the decades, our preferred techniques for ensuring strong seams has changed mostly due to modern technology.  The best way to learn what seam finishings were popular in each decade is to pick up a pattern and take a look at the instructions.  Recommended seam finishing techniques are included in most vintage patterns from the 1930s through to the 1950s.  It starts to drop off in instructions in the 1960s, which is of no surprise given that the first home overlock or serger machines were available to home sewists around 1964 (though they had been around in industrial sewing since the 1880s!).

Here's a few examples from some of my patterns on popular seam finishings through the decades.

1920s:

The top four techniques listed in this McCall pattern are 1) overcast edges together, 2) overcast edges separately, 3) seam binding, and 4) turned under and sewn.  While many of us know that seam binding was a popular method used in the 20s, 30s and 40s this is one of the only patterns I've seen that listed it as one of the top four techniques.

1930s:

In the 1930s we start to see a reference to 'pinking' seams using pinking shears (and this pattern says 'or by machine').  Pinking machines were available for home use at the end of the 19th century and was a simple hand cranked machine that you could run your fabric through to get a scalloped ('pinked') effect on the edges.  Check out this blog post for some photos of antique pinking machines.  Singer also introduced a sewing machine pinking attachment.  Susan from Spare Time (for Sewing) gives a great tutorial on using the pinking attachment.  While pinking scissors were originally patented in 1893, they were not widely used in home sewing until the patent of new and improved pinking shears by Samuel Briskman from Brooklyn who also started the Pinking Shears Corporation.  From the mid 1930s we start to see pinking as one of the top four recommended seam finishing techniques on vintage patterns lasting all the way through the 1950s and it's still a seam finish used regularly today.

1940s:

The top four finishing techniques listed in most 1940's patterns are very similar to the ones from the 1920s but with the addition of pinking as one of the most mentioned techniques (for example, the Advance pattern in the photo above only lists pinking in the sewing directions).  The top four finishing techniques most commonly listed in the 1940s are 1) overcast seams together, 2) pinked seams, 3) overcast seams separately, and 4) turned under and sewn.

1950s:

We see the same techniques listed in the instructions of 1950's patterns with a few exceptions including the introduction of french seams.  French seams have been around for ages and are listed as a technique in sewing books from earlier decades but I've never noticed it in sewing directions until the 1950s (like in the Weldons pattern above).

Here are some illustrations of popular edge finishes from my 1943 Minature Fashions: Simplicity Sewing Book:

Resources
Here are some really great tutorials, often with step-by-step pictures, on various seam finishes: 

• Seam Finishes tutorial from Casey's Elegant Musings

• Turned and stitched seam finishes and bound edges seam finishes tutorial from Tasia who blogs over at Sewaholic

• Another great seam finishes group of tutorials from Sew Mama Sew

• The Coletterie blog did a whole series on seam finishes including a great bias bound seam finishes tutorials in two parts (part 1 and part 2) 

• A great tutorial from the Oliver + s blog on pinking seams

• A fantastic four-part series from Sunni over at a Fashionable Stitch on seam finishes (Basic seam finishes, Self Finished Seams Part 1, Self Finished Seams Part 2, Decorative Seams Part 1 and Decorative Seams Part 2).

What's your preferred technique?  Have you come across any unique seams finishes in vintage patterns?

D is for Darts

 While darts may not be as exciting as collars or accessories, they can totally change the fit of a garment and give it a more vintage look.  Each decade seems to have favoured different types of darts and dart combinations to achieve a unique overall silhouette.

 Picture Source: Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing

I'm super excited to have just gotten Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing in the post yesterday! It's jam-packed with vintage sewing tidbits (and yummy patterns).  I really love the illustration above on the different types of bodice darts.

Here are a few examples of bodice darts through the decades from vintage patterns:

1930s:

The 1930s and 1940s utilized a wide range of bodice shaping techniques.  The most common darts I see in my 30's patterns are side darts and waist darts usually partnered with some specific pattern design that gives unique shaping (gathering, princess seams, etc.).

1940s:

I love the 1940's silhouette and a lot of the shaping comes from waist darts.  Have you ever had a 40's blouse and found it hard to wear with non-40's trousers?  That's because the waist darts made it easy to tuck blouses into high-waisted trousers.  In my opinion, the 1940s (and late 1930s for that matter) is also the decade with the most variation in bodice shaping achieved through tucks, gathers, princess seams among other techniques.

Here's an example from a 1939 and 1940 pattern respectively (all of these patterns are from my ever increasing pattern stash):

1950s:

The 1950's silhouette combines a side dart and a waist dart to achieve, well, a more pointy look.  This often makes it difficult to wear with modern undergarments.

I also see a lot of slanted or 'French' darts from 1950s patterns, especially in blouses.  These are usually accompanied with waist tucks (such as in the Maudella pattern) or neckline shaping such as in the Simplicity pattern.  I really love this silhouette and find it very easy to wear!

1960s:

We see a lot of 1950s style darts in the 1960s, just longer!  I really love the Simplicit pattern above which has a dart shaping turn into a design feature (hidden pockets) and the Style pattern shows the long darts that give 60's shift dresses their shape.

 from Make Handmade blog

Have you seen this illustration?  It's absolutely mind-boggling to see all the different dart arrangements for various blouse shapes.

Resources
Here's some handy resources for working with darts:

• The Coletterie blog has a good tutorial on sewing darts.

• Gertie is the dart manipulation queen! Her blog is packed with great tutorials including how to sew darts, pivoting a dart, moving skirt dart to hemline flare, and dart alterations.

• The Make Handmade blog has great illustrations on how to manipulate and move darts.

• Miss P has a great tutorial on moving a dart from her Top Draftalong series.

Are there any types of darts you prefer over others?

C is for Collars

Oh how I love collars--they can definitely make an outfit.  One of the great things about vintage sewing is that there are a lot of detachable collar patterns.  Having a couple basic dresses with lots of interchangeable collars and cuffs was very popular in the 1930s all the way up to the 1970s as was dickies or false shirt fronts (a trend picked up again from Edwardian and earlier fashions).

Here's some lovely examples of collar patterns:

1930's

1. 1930's collar and dickey pattern, available at this shop on Etsy; 2. Early 30's collars and belts pattern from my collection; 3. Early to mid 30's dress pattern with large collar, available at Best Vintage Patterns, 4. 1930's removable fur collar and cuffs, photo from here.

1940's:

1. 1941 McCall removable collar to embroider or smock, from my collection 2. 1940s dickey pattern, available at this shop on Etsy; 3. mid 40's blouse with jabot collar, available at this shop on Etsy; 4. 1940's Advance dickey pattern, available from this shop on Etsy.

1950's

1. 1950 collars, cuffs and vestee pattern, available at this shop on Etsy. 2. 1950s collar and matching bouquet pattern, sewn up by Marie at A Sewing Oddysey; 3. McCall's 1950's hats, collars and cuffs pattern, available at this shop on Etsy; 4. 1940's McCall's collars, shawl and cuffs pattern, available from this shop on Etsy.

More 1950's patterns for basic dresses with interchangeable collars:

1. 1950's dress with removable collars, available at this shop on Etsy. 2. 1950s dress with collars, scarf and capelet, available at this shop on Etsy; 3. McCall's 1950's scoop neck dress with collar variations, available at this shop on Etsy; 4. 1950's Simplicity 3973 dress with overlay collar/cape, available from this shop on Etsy.

1960's

1. 1969 shift dress with collar and cuff variations, available at this shop on Etsy. 2. 1960s collar variations including ruffled collar, available at Heavens to Betsy Vintage; 3. Simplicity 1960's dress with collar variations, available at this shop on Ecrater; 4. 1960's McCall's collar variations, available from Another Time pattern shop.

My First Dress: A Removable Collars and Cuffs Project:

My first dress with collar and cuff variations

I'm definitely in love with collars.  In fact, the very first dress I made had detachable collar and cuffs.  I've made it a point to revisit this dress at the same time every year on the date that I posted my first ever blog post (on this very dress).  So far I've done yellow and green collar and cuffs.  Maybe this year I'll go for purple or another colour of green?  What colour do you I should do next?

Collar Sewing Tutorials and Resources:
Here are some fabulous resources (leave a comment if you know of others not on this list!)

• Great tutorials from Casey's Elegant Musings on making a detachable autumn collar  and a faux fur collar.

• Casey also did a two-part series on creating a scalloped 1930's inspired collar for the Pendrell blouse (or any other blouse), check out part 1 and part 2 of the tutorial.

• Gertie also did a three-part tutorial series on drafting a peter pan collar.  Check out part 1, part 2, and part 3 of that tutorial.

• The Coletterie blog has loads of inspiration for vintage inspired collars.  Check out their tutorial on making a lace overlay collar, a faux fur collar (with free pattern) and their recent post on collar inspirations details.

• Sunni over at A Fashionable Stitch recently did a shirt dress collar tutorial

• Tuppence Ha'penny Vintage has a great tutorial on drafting a sailor collar

• Also check out Brittany's guest post at Tuppence Ha'penny Vintage's blog on making a beaded collar 

• Megan Nielson put together a great tutorial on constructing a scalloped edge beaded detachable collar

• The Quality Time blog posted a free vintage dickey and peter pan collar pattern

• If you crochet, there are some amazing free vintage crochet collar patterns available here.

• The Costumer's Manifesto has a great list of free patterns for men's and women's detachable collars from the 1850s to the 1930s.  

• See Kate Sew has a neat ruffle collar pattern and tutorial. 

What's your favourite type of collar?  Have you ever sewn a detachable collar?

B is for Border Prints

I am super excited that I managed to get at least one summer dress out of summer this year!  Not that we really had a summer here in Scotland, but that's besides the point.  The best part?  I got to use some delicious border print fabric that I got during our Crafters' Ceilidh meet-up last January!!

My mind automatically associates border prints with 1950's dresses.  So that's exactly what I made.  I used Simplicity 4209 which was a gift from a lovely reader and fellow seamstress.  I just love the gathered skirt and the drape of the neckline.

My border print fabric is a medium-weight dressmaking cotton--so it's a little heavy for the draped neckline but holds the skirt gathers beautifully.  This border print was fantastic in that half of the fabric was pure white and the other half was the border print--making it super easy to make a dress out of it.  While white isn't a colour I usually choose, I was sold on the bright teal tulips with brown accents.

The dress closes with a full bodice length zipper down the back.  I followed the directions and inserted a lapped zipper which I am pretty chuffed with.

Oh--I just love this hairdo!  This was part of my Dixiebelle's Vintage Hair and Beauty Parlour treat to myself.  Ariana, my lovely hairstylist, put it up into the most beautiful 50's inspired hairdo.  I even like how it looks in the curlers :)

Here is a photo of Ariana and I! Can't you see how pleased I am with my new 'do?  So much fun to properly celebrate a new dress!

We found a golden patch of flowers and thought that was perfect for the tulip inspired 50's dress!  YAY! Super happy to be back sewing again, especially since the last garments I made were for the mammoth graduation project.  Sometimes it takes awhile to get back into the swing after such a big project but this was the perfect summer sewing interlude!

A is for Accessories

 The epitome of a well accessorized woman

from 
Needlewoman magazine, 1935

One of the best things about vintage sewing patterns and about vintage fashion in general, is that so much more attention was paid to accessories!  According to my 1943 'Complete Book of Sewing'...

Accessories make one dress do the work of three, bring last year's dress up to date, turn a simple dress into an elaborate one, and impart an air of luxury to an expensive dress.  They are easy to make and cost practically nothing if you use scraps of material left over from suits an dresses, or keep your eyes open for remnants.  They can be quickly added to your dress, and they make an incalculable difference in the smartness of your appearance.

Everything from hats to belts, handbags to gloves is included in accessories.  Here are some examples of accessories through the decades (from the 30s to the 60s):

Hats

1. 1937 ladies hat pattern available at EvaDress; 2. 1940's Butterick hat pattern, available at this shop on Etsy; 3. 1950's John Frederics Toque hat pattern, available at this shop on Etsy; 4. 1960's hats, nightcap and curler bag, available at this shop on Etsy.

Belts

1. 1939 Simplicity dress pattern with belt options, available at Miss Betty's Attic; 2. 1940's belts and cumberbund pattern, available from Mrs Depew Vintage; 3. 1950's accessories pattern with several belt options, photo from Flickriver; 4. 1960's accesories pattern with two belt options, available at this shop on Etsy.

Gloves

1. 1930's Butterick gloves pattern, available at this shop on Etsy; 2. 1940's gloves pattern, available from this shop on Etsy; 3. 1950's Simplicity Designers gloves pattern, available from The Blue Gardenia; 4. Late 50's gloves pattern, available at this shop on Etsy.

 Handbags

1. 1930's cloche, bag and scarf pattern, available at from Mrs Depew Vintage; 2. 1940's drawstring bag pattern, available from this shop on Etsy; 3. 1950's Simplicity accessories pattern including two clutches, available from Mrs Depew Vintage; 4. 1960's dress and handbag pattern, available at this shop on Etsy.

Miscellaneous Accessories

1. 1930's accessories pattern including hat, scarf, gloves and spats, available from Wearing History; 2. 1940's fabric flowers pattern, image from the Vintage Pattern Wiki; 3. 1950's dress and shawl pattern, available from this shop on Etsy; 4. 1960's felt slippers and slipper case pattern, available at this shop on Etsy.

Resources

Tutorial from my 1943 'Complete Book of Sewing' by Constance Talbot

Here are a few tutorials and free patterns to sew up your own vintage and vintage-inspired accessories (please share your own links as well!):

Hats:

• 10 free hat tutorials at The Sew Weekly
• Vintage bowler hat tutorial from Bramcost Publications
• Vintage tutorial and pattern links at Va Va Voom Vintage

Belts:

• Belt Making School tutorials and buckle kits available at A Fashionable Stitch
• Leather bow belt tutorial from Casey's Elegant Musings
• Fabric bow belt tutorial from Tilly and the Buttons  

 Gloves:

• 50s leather gloves tutorial from Of Dreams and Seams
• Vintage wrist length gloves tutorial

Handbags and Purses:

• Bag making tutorials with 45 different free bag patterns from Frugal and Thriving
• Purse making tutorials with 143 different free patterns 
• Cute mod pear-shaped coin purse tutorial from Craft Passion
• Rose frame vintage purse tutorial from Craft Couture by TC

Tutorial from my 1943 'Complete Book of Sewing' by Constance Talbot

The ABC's of Vintage Sewing

I can hardly believe it's September.  The month of new beginnings, of going back to school or work after a bit of vacation and for me, of learning new things.  I thought it would be the perfect month for a blog feature called the 'ABC's of Vintage Sewing' to highlight all the things I love about sewing with vintage patterns and to learn a few new things myself!  So, what'dya say?

 Raise your hand if this brings back school memories....

First, I thought it would be fun to delve deep into my subconscious and try to articulate all of the reasons that I love sewing with vintage patterns.  Here's my list in no particular order...

I love sewing with vintage patterns because...

• I can create my favourite looks from bygone eras.  Glamour hollywood...check.  Make Do and Mend for Victory....check.  Mad men inspired....check.    

• I can create looks from every decade and have them in one wardrobe.  There's nothing to say you can't do 30s one day, 40s the next and move onto 50s, 60s and 70s later in the week.  I love that!

• I can create vintage fashion that fits me for much cheaper than buying vintage clothing.  I don't know about you, but I always find it hard to shop for vintage clothing that actually fits.  

• patterns of decades past are so well-drafted.  Have you sewn with an art deco thirties pattern?  Let me tell you, they are brilliantly drafted. 

• there's no such thing as ease.  One of the things that drives me crazy with modern patterns is the amount of ease built in.  It makes it impossible to tell what size you should actually buy/make.  This isn't the case with vintage patterns (at least those from the 40's and earlier), the size of the measurements is the size of the pattern.  They are all tailored with moderate ease calculated into each measurement.  No crazy ease in vintage patterns.  The size you see, is the size you get.

   

 1950's dress pattern from this shop on Etsy

• of the beautiful pattern drawings.  One of my favourite things about vintage patterns is the pattern drawings.  It's amazing what they can capture.  I've seen pattern drawings that look like velvet or lace.  Each detail of the pattern is well captured...and well, it just looks so much nicer.

• the patterns give you a glimpse into the sewing methods and mores of each decade. Want to know what seam finishes were popular in the 1930s?  Just check out the directions in a 1930's pattern!

• they can be mini courses in sewing haute couture.  Want to learn tailoring methods or inserting boning into a bodice?  Pick up a 1950's Vogue Couturier pattern or a Vogue Special Design.  There's a reason these patterns sell for a lot!

• you can make your own designer outfit.  Lots of pattern companies teamed up with popular fashion designers to bring home sewists special designs.  I've seen designer patterns from as early as the 1930s.

• I feel the generations of home sewists in every vintage pattern I sew.  Have you ever picked up a vintage pattern and found handwritten notes on construction, notes on colours and fabrics the pattern was destined to be sewn with? Or have you found newspaper clippings or other mementos in vintage sewing patterns?  It's always a reminder to me that each vintage pattern has been loved by other sewists and I somehow feel that by continuing the tradition of sewing with these patterns that we are all sharing our passion for sewing together.

What about you?  Do you sew with vintage patterns? What would be on your list of favourite reasons to sew with vintage patterns? 

A trip underground with a Sewasaurus Rex

Hey look....it's Cindy from Cation Designs and me at my favourite fabric store!! When Cindy contacted me and said she would be coming to Edinburgh, I was so excited.  You see I'm obsessed with inspired by all of Cindy's creations.  There's the superman dress, the cat's pyjamas, the Sewasaurus Rex t-shirt, the Retro Star Wars dress, the My Girl on Fire Dress from the Hunger Games...and the list goes on and on.

Let me tell you, we had a blast!  Cindy is just the nicest person--with a fantastic sense of humour.  We met up for lunch (the four of us!!) at one of my favourite restaurants, then we went and scoured all the fabric lovelies at Edinburgh Fabrics.  Then we headed underground to see Mary King's Close.  'Closes' (or alleys/streets coming off the Royal Mile) were often named after the most prominent citizen living on the close.  Mary King was a prominent businesswoman in the 1600’s.  Apparently, she traded in fabrics and sewed for a living!  How neat is that?  I believe it's the only close named after a woman as it was highly unusual at that time, indicating Mary’s high standing in the town (and her sewing entrepreneurship!).

Model of the underground close

So how did it come to be underground?  Like most underground portion of cities, they thought it would serve as a good foundation. It was buried under another building--the Royal Exchange!

It was neat to see the underground neighbourhood.  One room even had the original 16th century plaster still on the walls! We walked around led by costumed guides, heard a ghost story from the time period, witnessed victims of the plague, and even got our picture taken by an infrared camera.  When we got the picture, we noticed an ominous figure in the background:

EEP!  Doesn't that look like a ghost???  I'm pretty sure it was another costumed guide....but....what if it wasn't??  Maybe it was the real Mary King try to reach out to her fellow seamstresses!

What do you think?  Do you have any ghost stories??  I want to hear them!!

Dixiebelle's Vintage Hair and Beauty Parlour

Let me tell you about the most awesomest place in Edinburgh, Miss Dixiebelle's Hair and Beauty Parlour.  This gem of a place features a fabulous boutique full of retro clothing and a vintage hair salon.

You see, my hair was getting long...too long.  It was becoming cumbersome to do pincurls and when I did, it was too heavy to hold them.  So, I just sort of went for it and got my hair cut short (well, short to me anyways)!

This is just part of my hair...I think we were only halfway through at this point.  I got a short middy cut which is basically a layered cut with the back creating a nice 'u' shape.  It's fantastic because you can style it in so many ways (30s, 40s, 50s or even 60s).

Ariana, a master vintage stylist cut my hair.  She is absolutely amazing. She does all sorts of cuts and styles so if you are ever in the area, definitely treat yourself to a vintage updo at the hair salon!

I absolutely love it!!!  I was hoping to get some more pictures today but it's been raining like crazy here.  I've been trying out some new pincurl sets and experimenting....more pictures coming soon!