Monday, May 6, 2013

McCall 764: The Birdie Blouse


I'm super excited to share my latest 1940 McCall make!  I want to introduce you to McCall 764 or 'The Birdie Blouse'.  The August 1940 Complete Needlework Catalogue describes McCall 764 in the following way:
McCall 764: Two-toned embroidery offers a charming trim for the sheer blouse of crisp organdy, batiste, fine lawn, dimity or crepe de Chine.  Or lace insertion may be used for an airy effect.

You may notice my almost exact replication of the cover illustration for this blouse. What can I say? Sometimes I love the cover illustrations so much that I want to make the exact same garment!  There is a big difference with this blouse.  Instead of doing embroidery, I used the lace insertion technique to insert a swallow print trim:


You see, I was contacted by Cloth magazine since they were going to include a free gift for readers of this month's issue (issue 18) of a vintage inspired 'swooping swallow' trim--they wanted to know if I would make something from the trim and send them pictures so that they could include in the magazine so readers could get some different ideas of how to use their trim.  Of course I said yes!!! I adore Cloth magazine and their blog (the most fashionable sewing magazine around imho).  I knew I wanted to make something that was completely me....and so I turned to my 1940 McCall patterns for inspiration and doesn't McCall 764 just jump out as the perfect match??

Here's another illustration of McCall 764 from the April 1940 McCall Style News:















I tried two different methods to secure the trim.  The first was to use a hand picked stitch to secure it. The second was to sew the trim down along the small blue border.  This method worked best, and I was able to find the perfect matching blue thread:











The blouse material is a crepe backed satin.  The pattern is brilliantly drafted and includes a front panel of multiple gathered sections, several pin tucks at the shoulder, and again on the sleeve.  The sleeve shape is really interesting and is constructed in three pieces with the trim running down the center, with pin tucks all around.  This leads to a very voluminous sleeve!  The peter pan collar is trimmed with bias binding from the same navy wool that my skirt is made from (the skirt is McCall 3968, my 'Jumpin' the Sharks' skirt, also from 1940). I opted to forego the bow at the collar...I think the blouse has enough going for it already ;-)



The blouse closes by zipper at the side and I really like the length and waistband on the blouse:


There is also a one-button closure at the neckline and a slightly bloused effect at the back:


We took these photos in 'The Meadows', a large park in the center of Edinburgh.  Such stunning scenery!  I also am really happy with my hair, which I had done at my favourite vintage salon in Edinburgh (Miss Dixiebelle).

I'm also very humbled to see my blouse pictured in issue 18 of Cloth Magazine, alongside the amazing By Hand London ladies, and Tilly from Tilly and the Buttons:




How fun is that?  A super big thank you to the folks at Cloth Magazine for including me!
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