Monday, November 16, 2015

Hollywood Glamour Gowns

It's the perfect time of the year for thinking about sewing a holiday gown!  I absolutely love New Year's Eve and all the holidays that allow the chance for dressing up.  Here are a few gowns that I've been looking at lately for inspiration:


Rita Hayworth from "You Were Never Lovlier" (Columbia Pictures, 1942)    

I love Rita Hayworth's dress from the movie 'You were Never Lovelier', especially the lace that becomes a glittery shooting star.

Rita Hayworth - Studio publicity portrait for "Blood and Sand" (20th Century Fox, 1941)  

For those south of the equator, halter dresses can also be very glamourous and Rita looks fantastic in all dresses.

Ann Sheridan (Photographed by George Hurrell, 1940)    

This is also the time of year where glittery and lamé fabrics give a gown the extra glamour like the dress above worn by Ann Sheridan.

Veronica Lake from "Ramrod" (United Artists, 1947)  Costume designed by Edith Head    

I'm slightly obsessed with Veronica Lake's gown – it has a country feeling of glamour and the bodice details are just stunning.

Myrna Loy in a bias-cut crêpe cocktail gown.  
This is around the time of first movie from The Thin Man series (1934-1936)

Myrna Loy always comes to my mind when I think of Hollywood glamour.  In fact, the first Thin Man movie is one of my all-time favourites.  This dress is in a spongy and sparkly crêpe fabric; I just love the drape of the bodice and shoulders. Simple yet elegant.

Joan Bennett -  in her brunette "femme fatale" phase (between 1939-46) 

Holiday gowns also provide the perfect opportunity to sew with velvet – one of my favourite fabrics to wear.  I really want to try sewing with silk velvet. Unfortunately, it's a fabric that is hard to get at my local fabric stores, so I might have to try and source it online.  Any good recommendations?

Carole Lombard from "No Man of Her Own" (Paramount, 1932).  “Connie Randall” beige gown by Travis Banton    Check out the Colette blog about him here.  

I think this dress worn by Carole Lombard is what I would consider the ultimate glamour gown!  Now, can you imagine this in a velvet silk?

Do you have any plans for holiday sewing this year?
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Monday, October 26, 2015

Introducing the Vintage Pattern Collective

I am super happy to introduce my newest sponsor,  a collective of vintage pattern sellers and the lovely lady behind the scenes.  I've asked Jill from the Vintage Pattern Collective some questions about vintage sewing and the collective....read on and be inspired to go vintage!



Jill's family's connection to sewing is what got her to help her mother start Vogue Vixens, which lead to involvement with Pattern Patter, and eventually taking over running the Vintage Pattern Collective.   While it is a business, it is definitely more a labour of love, that has developed into a better connection between Jill and her mother.


It’s great that you’ve been able to form a collective with other Vintage Pattern sellers.   Can you tell us a little bit more about the collective?  How did it start? What are some of the ways in which the members of the Vintage Pattern Collective work together?

We are a collective of women-run small pattern supply shops on Etsy, an extension of the Pattern Patter Team.  Our members love preserving, collecting, and selling vintage and newer sewing patterns - many of us are sewers too!

We help each other with advice on pattern dating, pricing, and repairing.  There is business mentoring on customer service, photography, pattern listings, and social media.  If one of us has a pattern request that we cannot fulfill or is looking for a missing pattern piece or instructions, we reach out to our teammates for help.  On a personal level, we have formed friendships, and support each other through highs and lows.  As small individual shops on a such a large website, it can be a struggle to be found, to draw traffic.  The Vintage Pattern Collective formed as an advertising program so that many of our little Etsy shops could band together and use our combined buying power to buy ads on blogs and get noticed.  

The Vintage Pattern Collective has 29 members, each with a stock of sewing patterns that are thoroughly checked for quality and counted for completeness.  Our member's collections range from the 1920's, to modern patterns, there are patterns for women, men, children, as well as crafts and home decor.


You have a few free patterns and resources available on your site.  One of the things I've enjoyed most about the online sewing community is how people are so helpful and willing to share.  Tell us a bit about the resources and if anything else is planned for this section of the site.

Under the Resources section of the Vintage PatternCollective website we have posted vintage publications from Dritz on Layout, Cutting & Marking, and Pressing as you Sew. There is the Getting Ready to Sew with advice on the tools and layout for a sewing room, as well as a marvelous guide to taking body measurements.  There are also sewing tips, a booklet on alterations, and a needle and thread size guide.  Old advice is still good advice!  The Free Patterns sections has vintage sewing patterns for an apron, hat, bag, circle skirt as well as a few more accessories.
We do plan on adding more free patterns, it's just a question of finding patterns that are in the public domain. 

What are your plans for the Vintage Sewing Blog?  

With the help of some of our talented members, the plan is to start a Blog at Vintage Pattern Collective, with at least one post a month. 

It seems that sewing with vintage patterns is so much more than a “fad” or passing phase.  Would you say it has continued to increase in popularity? 
  
There is a feeling of more freedom in fashion today, if you don't like the "hottest" trends, you can turn to the past to find and sew a look that suits you.  In my mind this is one of the reasons for increased interest in vintage patterns.  Vintage patterns tend to not have so much "ease" built in, the fitting is different and some sewers prefer that.

As our society becomes increasingly digital, there is also some appreciation for the fragility and rarity of paper patterns.  There are those that enjoy vintage patterns, just for the illustrations, a fashion time capsule.

How did you discover vintage pattern sewing? Do you have a favourite pattern or outfit you’ve made?

I'll admit that I'm a terrible sewer born to a family of marvelous seamstresses. 
Recently I discovered that my grandmother Justina was known as the unofficial town seamstress, while still finding time to raise 6 children and drive the town schoolbus! She mainly sewed gowns for weddings, dances and graduation.  Her skills were used at home to rework clothing to keep all her children well dressed.  My favourite Christmas story is how my mother desperately wanted a Princess Elizabeth doll, which my grandparents could not afford.  On Christmas morning she ran to the tree to discover her wish had come true! On closer inspection she realized it was her own doll, dress in a Princess Elizabeth wardrobe that my grandmother had painstakingly recreated.  

My mother Karen and her pattern collection is the heart of our shop - Vogue Vixens.  She started sewing as a teen, and she sewed for her family and herself until just a few years ago.  Dresses, pajamas, curtains, dance costumes, you name it, she sewed it.  She kept all her patterns, and I loved to flip through them as a child, playing in her sewing room, the colourful illustrations were fascinating. As I got older, if I wanted a new outfit, it was my job to lay out the pattern on the fabric and cut out the pieces, as well as sew the hem and buttons.  

When I was 18, I saw a lovely cream crinkle silk strapless dress in a local store that would of been perfect for my upcoming graduation dance. Unfortunately, it was not my size.  My mother recreated the dress, by going through her pattern collection, and we were lucky to find some crinkle silk at a bridal fabrics store, in bright fuchsia (it was the 80's). She used the skirt from this McCall's 9509 pattern:


The bust of this classic McCall's dress has ruching. Instead, the bodice for my dress was strapless, with a surplice detail, and of course boning for support.  Mom even made a crinoline so I would have a full skirt look.  A strange connection; one of the first patterns sold in our shop was the pattern for my Mother's wedding dress – a Vogue Dior pattern that my grandmother only used for the bodice!




What advice would you give to someone who is interested in learning how to sew vintage patterns but has never sewn before?  

When choosing a vintage pattern, compare your measurements and choose a pattern that matches your bust size, as it is always easier to adjust a pattern at the hips and waist.  My other suggestion if you are a beginner is to start with simple patterns as you learn and gain confidence.  There are lovely shift dresses from the 1960's and 70's where the fit is looser, and these are more forgiving.

What's next for the Vintage Pattern Collective? 

Developing the blog is what is foremost on my mind, January is the projected launch.

Thank you so much, Jill, for sharing these resources and history of the collective.  I'm super excited about the Vintage Pattern Collective, as it contains many of my favourite vintage pattern sellers!  Check out the full list here with links to their Etsy stores.  Happy Sewing!
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Monday, August 31, 2015

The 'Maillot à Pois Rouges' Mimi Blouse


I'm happy to share my latest sewing make: the 'Maillot Ã  Pois Rouges' Mimi blouse!  'Maillot Ã  Pois Rouges' literally means white with red polka dots but it is also the jersey that is worn in the Tour de France by the person who reaches the mountain top first (the 'King of the Mountains').  While I definitely did not cycle up any mountains, it seemed a nice metaphor for this sewing project.  This Mimi blouse sat lingering in my stash for far too long and finishing it felt like a good sewing achievement!


The fabric is a nice lightweight mixed blend fabric with a cotton contrast collar. I'm usually not a big fan of thin collars but I do like how it looks on this blouse!  The blouse was easy to put together and features a nicely gathered back yoke, pleated sleeves and a button-down front.


The most time consuming parts included attaching the collar and sewing the buttonholes and buttons – primarily because they are the two things that really stand out on the shirt (especially when if you decide to do a contrast collar!)  I have to say that making the collar symmetrical (or as symmetrical as I could!) was the biggest challenge!


Overall, I'm happy with the results and now I have a nice spring/summer weight blouse!  I'd love to try sewing it up all in one fabric.

What about you?  What has been your most recent sewing 'mountaintop' achievement?
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Monday, August 10, 2015

McCall 3554: The Black Cherry Blouse


I am so happy to share my latest 1940 McCall Project make: 'The Black Cherry Blouse'.  Many of you know that I am collecting and trying to sew my way through the entire 1940 McCall pattern catalogue!  There are a lot of patterns from that year and I just love all of them.  I'm making good progress on the collecting and less on the making! HA!  You can check out my entire 1940 McCall pattern collection on pinterest and also see what I have sewn up so far for the 1940 McCall Project.


This is McCall pattern 3554, which was released at the beginning of 1940.  It can be made up in long or short-sleeve versions.  I opted for the summer friendly short-sleeve version sewn up in a very soft cotton fabric.  The pattern is very busy but if you look closely, it's a bunch of black cherries with little green leaves.


The pattern has two pockets on the front – which almost disappear due the fabric pattern.  These are functional pockets that close with a button.  The back is gathered and attached to a yoke.  The sleeves are not inserted the normal way, rather they are sewn open onto both front and back bodice with a lapped seam and then closed by sewing the entire underarm seam and following that line all the way down the side of the shirt:


The shirt also goes very well with my me-made trousers (made with a TNT reproduction pattern from 1941).  In fact, like these trousers, this shirt pattern could easily become a staple in my wardrobe.  I already want to sew it up in all sorts of fabrics!


YAY! I'm already plotting and planning which 1940 McCall pattern to sew up next.  Any suggestions?
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Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Vintage haircut and style


Readers, it was time.  Time to get my hair cut.  It had gotten to an awkward length that made doing pincurls difficult.  My stylist had gone on maternity leave and I was too scared to go to anyone else!  But luckily she came back! YAY!


I get my hair done by the vintage stylist, Ariana at Miss Dixiebelle's Retro Boutique in Edinburgh.  This is definitely one of my favourite places in Edinburgh.


I mean leopard print cover? Flamingo wallpaper?  Vintage hair dryer? Amazing vintage stylists?


Yay! It's exactly what I wanted!!  Didn't she do an amazing job? Perfect length and nicely layered.  I can't wait to play with the new hairdo!
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