Downton Abbey Costumes Episode 2

I don't know about you, but I'm itching to see more Downton Abbey costumes close-up.  Season 3's Episode 2 does not disappoint.  There seemed to be more formal dinners in this episode which means more amazing gowns.  I got the scans this week from Downton OnLine as I forgot to take my own screenshots.

This episode is memorable for the hats and headpieces, the amazing dressing gowns, the introduction of the most vibrant shade of plum (Lady Mary's dress and also her coat), seeing Lady Edith in a colour besides peach (hello green dress!) and the amazing coats (Lady Mary's is my favourite followed closely by Lady Grantham).  Enjoy!

Which outfit is your favourite?

P is for Vintage Patterns

I don't think it will come as any surprise to you that I have a serious weak spot for vintage sewing patterns.  I, um, *cough*, obsessively regularly troll vintage pattern websites for goodies.  So I thought I would put together an updated list of vintage pattern sellers building on the original list I posted last year.  I've purchased from nearly every single one of these pattern sellers!  My major weaknesses?  1940 McCall, 1950s Style and Style Print, 1927 McCall and Advance Import Adaptation patterns.

The two sites I check daily?  

1. Ebay (including Ebay UK), and
2. Etsy

I've had some really good luck lately on both Ebay and Etsy.  This pattern just came in the mail today bought off ebay:

It was $6 buy it now! $6!!!!! for a hooded 1940 jacket.  These sort of deals are few and far between but it's so much fun when they do pop up!  

Both Ebay and Etsy are great for buyers.  When I eventually open up a pattern shop (don't be fooled--this is not an income generating initiative but simply a way to support my own pattern buying habits, lol), I will definitely go with an Etsy shop.  Etsy is such a great community and it seems to me is also more seller friendly than Ebay.

An invaluable resource for Ebay is Collector's Weekly.  They have a vintage pattern section that lists the most popular patterns currently listed on ebay by highest price but also by most watched.  This is a great resource because if there is a pattern you are watching you can look at this list and see if it is on it AND you can tell how many other people are watching it!!  It changes daily.  You can also check lots of other ebay listings (they have a section for vintage sewing machines, 1940's hats, etc.).

Etsy is a treasure trove of patterns and it has the added benefit of not having bidding.  That said, if you see something for a really good price you have to act quick (especially for 1930's and early 40's patterns).  Oftentimes sellers won't have the option for shipping to the UK.  I have found most sellers are willing to ship and will add that option after I contact them to find out how much it will be.  If you really love a pattern and it's for a good price, ask the seller to reserve the pattern for you while they add the UK or overseas shipping option.  Just be sure if you do ask a seller to reserve a pattern for you that you go and buy it in a short timeframe (I would say within 24 hours if it is a cheaper item--you can ask for longer if it is a seller you know or the item is more expensive).

There aren't many 1930's or earlier patterns on Etsy for cheap--but occasionally you'll find a gem and then you have to act quickly!  There are lots of etsy sellers that I love for patterns: Patterns from the Past, Sydcam123, Selvedge Shop, Wearing History, KallieDesigns, CherryBubblesVintage, MidValeCottage, Pattern Peddler, Erika with a K, She'll Make You Flip, Sew Vintage Ladies, Atomic Redhead, HelaQ, PatternVault, Aunt Nonnies Nest, ZipZapKap and NewVintageLady to name a few.  There are loads more and oftentimes the best thing to do is to search by the specific pattern company or by decade to see what comes up!    

Here's a recent pattern I purchased from Sydcam123:

There aren't many sellers for the UK, but Top Tottie's Vintage has fabulous vintage clothes and sometimes has 1930's patterns!

There are lots of independent websites for vintage patterns and some have really good deals (and many ship to the UK and elsewhere).  

• Wicked Lady Collectables: A UK online pattern shop! whoohooo!
• Best Vintage Patterns: One of the best vintage pattern sites (no pun intended) I have seen, unfortunately, they don't ship internationally.  But if you know someone in the states that you can have the pattern mailed to--then it's perfect!

Here's one of my recent purchases from Best Vintage Patterns (yes, I am planning one venturing into some late 20's patterns):

• Woodland Farms Vintage:  This website is a treasure trove especially for early patterns. They ship internationally and you can also reserve items for 10 days (if you are an international customer) and they have layaway!
• Vintage Martini:  I'm so happy they've recently revamped their website making it so much easier to buy patterns online.  I've always been very happy with the service given by Vintage Martini.
• Main Street Mall Online, Vintage Patterns:  This includes several independent online stores including Stitches and Loops, Miss Helene's Vintage Sewing Shoppe and Pattern Gate.  I just use the mall's homepage search engine to search all the shops at once.  It takes a while as all the pattern photos have to load but I like looking at all of them at once.
• What-I-found shop has a great collection and Tina has a lovely blog as well.  
• Patterns from the Past:  This website is great and just added a bunch of wonderful 1920 McCall patterns for sale!
• Lanetz Living: This pattern seller has lots of variety. Some weeks it's early 40's and 1930's, other weeks there are 50's and 60's gems.  Definitely add the Lanetz Living blog to your RSS feed as new patterns are featured once they go into the store. And they get snapped up pretty quickly as the prices are so reasonable.  Reasonable shipping as well.  I bought my 1930s McCall pattern here that I made my Gatsby dress from last year:

• Moms Patterns:  This is a great website and once you get on the mailing list, you'll receive lots of coupon codes for 10%, 20% and even 25% off patterns.  Plus, there is a point based system so that you can accrue points to be used for money off pattern purchases.  The website is updated daily and there is usually a note on the homepage about what patterns will be added to the site and when.  This is one of the websites that I check daily.  There is a great selection.
• Out of the Ashes:  A great website that also has a blog so that you can keep up with additions to the shop.  Shipping prices are very reasonable.
• Your Pattern Shop:  Good selection of patterns--prices are variable.  1st pattern ships for $5.50 to the UK (approx. £3.40)
• The Blue Gardenia: Denise has an amazing selection of 1930's and early 40's patterns--plus lots of gowns.  Denise also has a blog (with lots of giveaways) and good sales.  Shipping usually via flat rate envelope or free if within the U.S.
• So Vintage Patterns: A load of patterns with lots of gowns and updated almost daily.  I believe this site also has layaways and pretty affordable international shipping (though the patterns tend to be pricier--but you'll find lots of unique patterns here).  I like to window shop at this website.
• Vintage Stitching: Patterns start in the 1940's, good prices AND shipping is included in the prices of the pattern (for both domestic and international)!
• Dandelion Vintage: International Shipping dependent on location and weight of item(s).  Several 1940's patterns.
• Heavens to Betsy: Lots of vintage patterns starting at the 1940's, tend to be a bit more expensive, flat rate shipping of $6.00 and then will adjust according to actual cost.
• Davenport and Co.: Not sure if they have international shipping but have several vintage patterns...located in New England.
• Cemetarian: Lots of vintage patterns.  I've gotten a few 1940 patterns from them and I seem to remember the shipping being very reasonable.  Great section on dating vintage patterns.
• Tangerine Boutique: Several lovely 1930's patterns (mid to higher price range..i.e. $30-40)
• Hawk Crossing: Great selection of 1930's (and some reproduction patterns as well). Not sure about international shipping.
• Ballyhoo Vintage:  Variable prices and shipping via global priority mail (I'm assuming this is weight-based).
• Vintage British Style: A newly found vintage pattern website that I love!  Located in the UK with some fab-u-lous patterns.
• Serendipity Vintage: Another new-to-me vintage pattern website that has some great 40s and 50s patterns.
• Chantilly Dreams:  Another recently found website that sells vintage patterns (among other vintage goodies).  I recently bought this pattern from Chantilly Dreams:

Another EXCELLENT resource for dating vintage patterns but also for finding vintage pattern sellers is the Vintage Pattern Wiki.  I LOVE this wiki and can spend hours browsing the patterns!  Sometimes the patterns will have a link to a place where you can buy it.  I find many new sellers this way and find that sellers are very active in listing patterns in the Wiki.  Best way to find new uploads to the Wiki?  Go to the homepage and then click on any of the pattern brands (i.e. McCall).  Doing that will take you to a page that has a side bar that says "Latest photos" and "Recent Wiki Activity".  These two areas will list the most recent Wiki activity.  I usually look by photos and then check to see if any of them have associated vendor listings.  I usually check the Wiki daily (but again, we've already established that I'm a bit obsessed with vintage patterns :)

One of the best ways of getting a vintage pattern (especially 1930s) is by purchasing a reproduction pattern.  The great thing is that you get the pattern but on new stock paper (so it's not as fragile).  Plus, the repro pattern sellers are fantastic and often have great deals, competitions and discounts!  The only downside for international customers is that the shipping is often more (because they are a bit heavier).  Usually you can buy 2-3 repro patterns in a flat rate box BUT then you may get stuck with paying customs on the UK side.  

But these reproduction and vintage-inspired pattern sellers are fantastic:

1. Decades of Style: Some really cute 1930's patterns.
2. EvaDress:  EvaDress also has a blog and a yearly competition using one of their repro patterns. I've made two dress suits from 1930s EvaDress patterns.
3. Sense and Sensibility:  Mostly early regency patterns but they have an early 1940s swing dress pattern.
4. Vintage Fashion Library: This website sells both reproduction and original patterns. 
5. Vintage Pattern Lending Library:  A great selection of reproduction patterns from virtually every era.  Janyce is also organising the VPLL 1912 Project which is reproducing the patterns from 1912 La Mode Illustree (the premiere French fashion journal of it's time) patterns and coordinating a year-long community of sewers around the project.
6. Edelweiss Patterns: offers 30s and 40s Sound of Music inspired patterns.  Katrina also has a blog where she writes about her vintage sewing projects.
7. Wearing History:  Lauren from Wearing History (who also has a fabulous blog) sells both original vintage-inspired patterns and reproduction patterns.  I've made a 1930s gown pattern from a Wearing History pattern!
8. The Tailor's Apprentice: A newly found website with some wonderful vintage-inspired patterns.  Definitely check out the 1940s Sailor Suit and the Women's Land Army Overalls.

Phew! Sorry for all the text!  I'm sure I'm missing LOTS of links/resources!  What are your favorite vintage pattern sites and tips?  Are there other reproduction and/or vintage-inspired pattern sites?  What are your experiences of buying vintage patterns (especially if you live outside the U.S.)?  Any good resources for 1930's and early 1940's patterns you would like to share?

O is for Organza

Organza is a wonder fabric.  According to the July 2012 issue of Threads on tissue-weight fabrics, organza is a crisp, plain-weave fabric that has some bounce with a wiry hand, and a little sheen...crushes easily and is usually silk but can be made from manufactured fibers. 

I often see directions in vintage patterns to use organza for giving structure or in place of stay tape with softer fabrics.  The faux fur jacket I made from a 1940 Simplicity pattern had directions to use strips of organza along the front lines of the jacket:

I also use organza as a press cloth when ironing.  I like it for ironing because it's a strong fabric but it is also transparent which makes it easier to see what I'm doing.

Gertie has done some great posts on organza and it's use in couture sewing including: all organza is not created equal, using organza to stabilize a neckline, and underlining in silk organza.

Do you use organza in your sewing?  What do you use it for?

It's been a long time...

Happy November everyone!  Sorry I disappeared off the blog for awhile.  I always find it hard to balance work travel with blogging but now I am officially on VACATION!  Yay!  I am so excited to catch up with all of your posts on my blog reader.

During my crazy work jaunt across the United States (I managed to luckily miss the hurricane), I did manage to get together with the lovely Meg who blogs over at Meg the Grand.  Thanks Meg for meeting me super early for breakfast one day!

Just a quick post to let you know I'm still here and will be writing more about what I've been up to!

N is really for Novelty Fabrics

Sorry for the silence this past week--I've been traveling for work.  I don't know about you, but I don't always have my stuff together right before I travel!  I always admire people we are packed days before, who schedule guest bloggers, who can rest the night before confident that they've done everything that is needed! Lol.  That's definitely not me.  Despite being a very organised person, I always seem to pack the night before and then forget something crucial (like my laptop cord).  Sigh.  Trying to be better about that :)

Today's post on vintage fabrics is brought to you by the letter 'N'.  I just love vintage fabrics--especially the fabulous novelty prints from the 30s and 40s.  So I thought I would put together a post of my favourite vintage fabric and reproduction fabric sites!

1930s Art Deco Rayon Fabric, available here

One of my favourite websites is Donna Flower.com where you will find a range of vintage fabrics from  the 1920s all the way up to 1980s as well as vintage-inspired fabrics.  I love just browsing this website for inspiration and colour combinations (like the 1930s Art Deco fabric pictured above).

1960s vintage cotton floral fabric, available here

Another UK website is the Vintage Fabric Market.  This site has primarily 60s and 70s pieces of fabrics.  Not a lot of yardage but if you're working on small projects and want a bit of the vintage feel--this is a great site!

40s/50s rayon fabric (3 and 1/2 yards of it!), available here

Sharon's Antiques, Vintage Fabrics is a treasure trove of vintage fabrics.  Everything is bookmarked by era and there is also a section for vintage rayon (often with decent yardage amounts).  Great website to look at all the fun vintage prints!

Mr K's Calico Garden Green Quilting Cotton, available here

You may have heard of Fabric.com but did you know they have a special section on reproduction vintage fabrics?  Reproduction fabrics simply means it is a new fabric borrowing inspiration from a vintage print.  While most of these are in quilting cotton, there are some fantastic prints that you may recognise from your local fabric shop!

Depression era fabric, available here

Reproduction Fabrics is probably the largest and most comprehensive reproduction fabric website.  The site includes vintage prints from the 1770s through to 1950 and is a great place to locate some historical prints such as civil war fabrics.  As the name implies, all the fabrics are reproductions--so they are new with vintage prints.

Ahoy Matey, Ship Shape Clementine, fabric by Michael Miller,

available here

Another great website for vintage inspired prints is Fancy Moon Fabrics.  I used one of their prints for my Mid-century Madness dress.  They have a wide variety of fabrics and often have several prints on sale.

Tuppence Ha'Penny Reproduction Fabric, part of the 'Household Chores Feedsack' Line,

 available here

Many of you know Charlotte who blogs over at Tuppence Ha' Penny Vintage.  She's been producing reproduction fabrics at Spoonflower.  You can purchase any of her prints in a variety of different cotton weights such as voile, silk, sateen and heavy twill as well as in silk crepe de chine.  Definitely check out her reproduction pattern line--there's some amazing vintage prints!

Have you ever sewn with vintage fabrics?  Do you like novelty prints?

Thrifty Style: Clever Ways to Revamp Your Wardrobe

 
I was delighted to receive an email about Janine's new book Thrifty Style: Clever Ways to Revamp your Wardrobe and was doubly delighted when I was asked if I would like to review it.  Of course! I love getting emails from readers and I'm especially happy when those among us are entrepreneurial sewers--like Janine who has created this amazing refashioning book!

This book is all about taking what you already have and repurposing or refashioning it with small tricks and ideas so that you have a wardrobe you love.  The book presents a perfect balance between vintage-inspired and modern looks and combines both of those influences in each garment presented.

Thrifty Style is FULL of lots of goodies.  I absolutely love the layout of the book and feel like I could read it for days and still find lots of new things!  The book includes 44 projects with detailed step-by-step instructions for refashioning your wardrobe. 

Reading through this book stirred up my creativity.  That is one of the things I love so much about refashioning or the 'make do and mend' attitude--there's so many possibilities!  One of my favourite projects in the book is the silk doily top pictured above and below.  I always see so many amazing vintage linens, doily's and embroidered handiwork at charity shops.  Wouldn't it be great to rework some of these into clothing, such as what Janine has done with the silk doily top?  I always feel so bad walking by the piles of doilies and embroidery knowing how much effort and love probably went into creating them.  I am really excited to try this out--and hopefully give those beautiful pieces of art another life!

 

A similar project creates a doily 'cut-out' or 'peek-a-boo' section to an otherwise completely vintage-looking blouse.  This is such a neat way to mix modern and retro influences into what I think is a very pretty blouse:

Another series of projects, show you how to use scarves to create fun summery tops and blouses.  I think I live in the wrong climate for this type of blouse but I do love wearing things like this when I am on holiday:

The book comes with three pull-out patterns, one of which is for the capelet with the fabulous collar below:

The back section of the book covers all the basics in sewing with really great illustrations.  It even includes a step-by-step guide for making your own dressmaker's dummy or dress form:

I really enjoyed reading Thrifty Style.  I haven't really delved into refashioning yet but it definitely got me thinking about my current wardrobe and those pieces that are just not working and how I can spice them up a bit.

What about you?  Are there pieces in your wardrobe you never wear?  Have you tried your hand at refashioning?

Downton Abbey Costumes Episode 1

Thank you all for the wonderful comments on the post about my new job.  They were all so lovely. Thank you for being so supportive!

I'm about to share lots of photos of the costumes from Downton Abbey Season 3....so if you haven't seen any of the episodes and you want to be surprised by the outfits, then look away now.  If seeing the costumes just gets you more excited and adds to your viewing pleasure, then keep reading! I promise not to give away any plots or storylines!

Cora's olive green or grey (?) dress with lace underlay and matching belt.  I have to say how much I love Carson! Just look at him--he's so dignified:

 

 

I must say I am really pleased with Season 3.  Definitely worth the wait.  Episode 1 starts in 1920 and let me tell you, the costumes do not disappoint!  

Check out this amazing full length black beaded dress worn by Lady Mary:

I love Lady Mary's over the elbow matching black gloves!

This is one of my favourites from episode 1, the beautiful blue velvet just shimmers:

Look at Anna's amazing coat.  I just love the bone detail in the back! The pleats! The shoulder detail! Exquisite!

Anna's coat and hat from the front.  Don't the shoulder edges look like they have been overcast?

Ok, I don't feel like I'm giving this away because, well, we saw this coming from last season.  I do love this image of everyone together:

Love, love, love, love! I would love to wear my hair like this everyday. So glamorous!

This is probably my favourite dress of the first episode.  I just love how the beading looks like a bow and I love the low-slung belt:

You know I am a sucker for tweed.  I just love both of these suits:

Here's a close-up of the suits.  Love the collar detail on Lady Mary's suit.  Her hat is also divine.

Which outfit is your favourite?  Are you excited to see the 1920s fashion on the series this season?

N is for New Job

I'm so excited that I had to take the letter 'N' from the 'ABCs of Vintage Sewing' series to share news about my new job!  Well, it's not really a new job but rather a promotion within my existing place of employment.

Many of you may already know that I am a researcher by day.  I'm really lucky to have a job that I really enjoy and a subject area that is my passion.  I research child maltreatment, violence in adolescence and violence against women. Phew! While that may sound like a hard way to spend each day, I absolutely love it.  I love it because there are some amazing people working in this field;  people that inspire me.  I love it because there are some incredibly hopeful things happening across the globe.  I love it because I feel like my small contribution can make a difference.  If at the end of my career I can feel like what I've done has made a small difference to ensuring that even just one child or young person has experienced the love and care they deserve, then I know I will have achieved my goals.

So what will I be doing now?  Well, I've embarked on the first important step for early career researchers...I've now got a Lectureship post (for those in the States that's equivalent to an Assistant Professor position). Eeeps.  So excited!

To celebrate, David and I enjoyed one of the few sunny days in Edinburgh and took a stroll through Prince's Street Gardens and had dinner and champagne at one of our favourite restaurants.

Oh, and I might have treated myself to a new Ness jacket (worn with my me-made Betty blouse and my 1941 trousers):

And of course, the matching purse! :)

Thanks so much for all your well wishes on my Facebook page! It means so much to me!  And wish me luck in this new position!